Black Water (Heishui) River in Lijiang

Heishuihe River (黑水河) is a tributary of the Jinsha River (金沙江), flowing through Lijiang (丽江) in Yunnan Province, China. It is situated about 4 kilometers from the Baishuihe River (白水河) and follows a similar direction. The riverbed of Heishuihe primarily consists of basalt, which gives it a dark blue-black color.

The Baishuihe River runs between Ganhai Zi (甘海子) and Yunhe (云河). Its riverbed is made up of sedimentary limestone fragments, resulting in a gray-white color. The clear spring water flowing over the stones appears white, leading to the name "Baishuihe." Both rivers are characterized by their continuous flow of pure, unpolluted water, which becomes a natural ice-cold drink in the summer.

Legend

In the Dongba (东巴) scripture of the Naxi (纳西) people, "Luban Lurao" (《鲁般鲁饶》), black and white are used to explain the essence of all things in the world, emphasizing the harmony of yin and yang. The black and white waters symbolize a natural river of love, suggesting that smooth passage is possible. Surrounded by lush greenery, a magnificent crystal white glimmers in the sunlight, resembling a frozen waterfall hanging amidst the verdant mountains. This area, known as Baishuitai (白水台), is considered the birthplace of Naxi culture.

Heishuihe Scenic Area

The Heishuihe Scenic Area (黑水河风景区) is a vital part of the Yulong Snow Mountain National Scenic Area (玉龙雪山国家级风景名胜区) located in Yulong Naxi Autonomous County (玉龙纳西族自治县) in Lijiang. The area is renowned for its stunning natural beauty and unique landscapes, attracting numerous visitors.

Journey Through Heishuihe River

On November 28, 2020, a group of 18 people departed from Qingxi Reservoir (清溪水库) at 08:30 and arrived at Heishui Village (黑水村) at 09:20, where they began their "leisurely" hike after a warm-up activity.

The Heishuihe and Baishuihe rivers are called Jina Ji (吉纳吉) and Jipan Ji (吉盘吉) in the Naxi language. These rivers originate from the green glaciers on the peak of Heishui Snow Mountain (黑水雪山).

The snow mountain is often referred to as an everlasting solid reservoir of water. The meltwater cascades from the towering cliffs, forming numerous streams that sometimes plunge underground, only to emerge again at the cliff's base. The spring waters separate and converge multiple times, ultimately merging to form the Heishuihe and Baishuihe rivers.

The riverbed of Baishuihe is lined with white pebbles, resulting in the water appearing white as it flows over them. Conversely, the riverbed of Heishuihe consists of black pebbles, giving the water a dark hue.

Walking Route

The day's hike was very relaxing. The group, composed of "Eight Great Kings" (八大金刚) and "Perfect Ten" (十全十美), traversed a short rugged uphill path in Heishui Village. This path is part of the water diversion project constructed from Heishui River, and it is well-maintained—about one meter wide and set amidst a forest and shrubs at an altitude of around 3000 meters. The path is relatively flat, making it suitable for a leisurely hike.

Invitation from Heishuihe

On November 28, 2020, during the hike along Heishuihe River, the following lines were penned:

After walking for more than five kilometers, at noon, our guide Zhu found a very flat area surrounded by wood where we could comfortably sit down for lunch. We began our joyful meal.

How to Get There

Public Transport

• Bus: You can take Bus No. 7 from Yuyuan Bridge (玉缘桥) in Lijiang Ancient Town to Ganhai Zi (甘海子) for approximately 15 yuan, with buses running every 30 minutes.

Private Transport

• Carpool: Sharing a van from Lijiang to Yulong Snow Mountain costs about 200 yuan for a round trip.

Direct Bus

• Buses: Daily direct buses to Yulong Snow Mountain are available in the morning. Tickets can be purchased online, and the departure point will be confirmed the night before. Round-trip tickets are around 40 yuan.

Taxi

• Taxi Fare: A one-way taxi ride costs approximately 80-100 yuan.

Travel Tips

• Best Time to Visit: Spring and summer provide the best weather and scenery for exploring the area.
• Recommended Duration: Plan for a full day to enjoy the attractions and activities available.
• What to Bring: Wear comfortable shoes, bring water, and keep your camera handy for stunning views.