“Sour Salted Fish” of Jino Ethnic Group in Xishuangbanna
Introduction to Sour Salted Fish
Sour salted fish is a cherished dish among the Jino ethnic group (基诺族) in Xishuangbanna (西双版纳). The process begins by thoroughly cleaning the fish, removing the scales, guts, and head. Larger fish are cut into pieces. The fish is then mixed with cooked rice, chili powder, and salt. After just half a minute, this mixture is packed tightly into fresh bamboo tubes, which give off a delicate fragrance. The mouth of the bamboo tube is sealed with banana leaves, and the fish is left to ferment for about two weeks. Once ready, the sour fish is taken out as needed for cooking. It is typically stir-fried in hot oil for five minutes before serving.
Sour Fish in Mengpeng Town (勐捧镇)
In Mengpeng Town (勐捧镇) of Mengla County (勐腊县), Xishuangbanna, sour fish is a popular dish among the local Dai ethnic group (傣族). Its distinctive flavor has won over the hearts of the local people.
The sour taste is a hallmark of Dai cuisine, and sour fish is a prime example of this cultural preference. Mengpeng Town is located in a mountainous basin, commonly referred to as a “Bazi” (坝子), where the temperature and humidity play key roles in shaping the local food culture. In this area, meals are rarely complete without sour dishes, contributing to the identity of the Dai people as the “Sour Dai” (酸摆夷).
The Nanla River (南腊河) and Nanrun River (南润河) flow through Mengpeng, providing a pristine ecological environment that is ideal for producing tender and flavorful wild “head fish” (头鱼). These fish are a crucial ingredient in making authentic Dai-style sour fish.
The Cultural Significance of Sour Fish
Sour fish represents more than just a culinary delight; it reflects the deep respect the Dai people of Mengpeng hold for nature and their harmonious relationship with the environment. As people savor this dish, they experience not only the unique flavor but also a sense of the Dai people’s resilient yet gentle character and the rich cultural heritage of their homeland.
Traditional Preparation Method
A key element of traditional sour fish preparation is the use of locally sourced wild sweet bamboo (甜竹), which is essential for the fermentation process. The bamboo is cut into tubes about 30 centimeters long, which serve as the fermentation vessel. This method preserves the freshness of the river fish. The fish is deboned, sliced, and rubbed with salt to lock in moisture. Garlic is added for extra flavor, and the mixture is placed into the bamboo tubes, which are then sealed with banana leaves. Time is the final ingredient, as the fish ferments into a bright, clean, and slightly chewy delicacy with a special aroma.
Historical Background
The Dai people developed the method of sour fish fermentation as a way to preserve food during times of scarcity. As the years passed, the difficult days of food shortages became a distant memory, but sour fish evolved into a prized delicacy used to honor guests. The dish now carries deeper meaning, symbolizing gratitude for a better life and a reminder of the past hardships.
As a sour fish maker named Yanzhuang (岩庄) explains, “Since I was a child, I watched my father make sour fish. He was always strict, carefully measuring ingredients and ensuring the right temperature and humidity for fermentation. Now, my father has passed this tradition on to me. I have come to appreciate the persistence required to make sour fish, guided by respect for nature, gratitude for food, and hope for a better life. Only by keeping these values can we produce sour fish that honors this unique Dai culinary experience.”
Preserving Tradition and Culture
The preparation of sour fish is not merely about taste—it represents the transmission of a unique cultural heritage. The traditional techniques and the cultural context in which this dish is made showcase the wisdom and creativity of generations of Dai people. The flavor of sour fish comes not only from the ingredients but from the accumulated knowledge passed down through time.
Traditional foods like sour fish are a bridge connecting modern people to their roots, allowing them to reflect on the essence of life in remote villages. These foods hold the history, emotions, and soul of the people, capturing the essence of their heritage. Sour fish serves as a reminder of the past, embodying the deep-seated connections between people and their land.
Cultural and Economic Impact
In recent years, Mengpeng Town has taken several steps to tap into its rich cultural resources. Sour fish has emerged as the town’s signature culinary item, serving as a symbol of the Dai people’s identity and a key component in developing the local food industry. By promoting sour fish, the town has encouraged cultural tourism and economic development, intertwining food, culture, and heritage in a way that strengthens both community identity and economic opportunities.
As part of this initiative, the town has sought to deepen the people’s appreciation for their ethnic culture, fostering a stronger sense of national pride and unity. The sour fish tradition serves as a tangible symbol of the “pomegranate seed” philosophy—an ideal of bringing together diverse ethnic groups into a cohesive, united nation. This is just one way that the unique ethnic cultures of China are blooming in the grand garden of Chinese civilization.
The sour salted fish of the Jino and Dai people is not just a dish but a celebration of culture, tradition, and harmony with nature. From its unique preparation using bamboo tubes and banana leaves to the rich symbolism it carries, sour fish is a cultural treasure that encapsulates the history and spirit of the Dai people in Xishuangbanna. Its growing popularity, driven by both its distinctive flavor and its cultural significance, ensures that this cherished dish will continue to thrive for generations to come.