Nestled in the mountainous embrace of Yunnan Province, Shuhe Old Town is a tranquil haven that whispers tales of a bygone era. As I set foot into this ancient Naxi settlement, the modern world seemed to dissolve behind me, replaced by cobbled lanes and the soft murmur of hidden streams. Shuhe is not just a place; it’s a living museum dedicated to the legendary Tea Horse Road.

The Heartbeat of Shuhe: Sifang Jie

The central square, Sifang Jie, was my first encounter with Shuhe’s vibrant community life. By day, it’s a quiet space, but as dusk falls, the square pulsates with life. Naxi dancers invite onlookers to join in their circle, a tradition as old as the town itself. Surrounded by quaint shops, the aroma of local cuisine fills the air, mingling with the scent of aged leather from the artisanal cobblers’ workshops.

Echoes of the Past: The Tea Horse Road

Shuhe’s significance is magnified by its connection to the Tea Horse Road, an ancient network of paths winding through the mountains, connecting China with Tibet. Shuhe was once a bustling trade post where horses were exchanged for the famed Pu’er tea. As I wandered through the market areas, it wasn’t hard to imagine the barter and trade that once thrived here, the air thick with different dialects and the clatter of hooves.

Architectural Wonders

The Kegongfang, or Imperial Examination Archway, stands as a testament to the town’s historical importance. Flanked by the gentle flow of the western and central rivers, it marks the scholarly achievements of the Naxi. The Qinglong Bridge, one of the oldest in the region, arches gracefully over the water—a silent witness to centuries of footsteps.

A Moment of Reflection: Dragon Pool and Sansheng Temple

At the end of my stroll through Shuhe, I found the Dragon Pool—a mirror-like expanse of water reflecting the sky and mountains. Overlooking this tranquil scene is the Sansheng Temple, a place where the divine and earthly seem to meet. Here, I paused, feeling the spiritual heartbeat of Shuhe, a reminder that some sanctuaries of peace and beauty are timeless.

Living Heritage: Naxi Culture

The Naxi people have called Shuhe home for over a thousand years, and their culture is intricately woven into the town’s fabric. Their pictographic language adorns signs and art, while their music—a blend of the profound and the earthly—fills the air in hidden courtyards.

Off the Beaten Path

Shuhe’s charm lies in its ability to remain untouched by the overwhelming tourism of nearby Lijiang. Here, life moves at a slower pace, and the legacy of the Tea Horse Road is as much a part of the present as it is of the past.

Practical Tips for the Intrepid Traveler

• Stay Overnight: Choose a traditional guesthouse to fully immerse yourself in the experience.
• Try the Local Cuisine: Sample Naxi dishes and the robust flavors of Yunnanese coffee.
• Respect the Culture: Engage with locals respectfully, and take part in community activities if invited.
• Explore Responsibly: Keep Shuhe pristine by minimizing your environmental impact.

As I left Shuhe, the cobblestones echoed with the laughter of children and the soft clop of donkey hooves—a melody that has played for centuries. Shuhe isn’t just a stop on the journey; it’s a destination where every alleyway and stream tells the story of the Tea Horse Road, a story that continues to unfold with each visitor who arrives seeking its quiet magic.

Jianshui, with its deep historical roots and cultural significance, is a captivating destination for those interested in the rich tapestry of China’s southern Yunnan province. Here’s an overview of what makes Jianshui a noteworthy stop for travelers exploring the region:

Jianshui: An Ancient Cultural Hub of South Yunnan

Historical Significance:
Jianshui boasts a history spanning over 1,200 years, having been a vital center for trade and culture. Its strategic location made it a key stop on the route from Kunming to Vietnam and other important regions like the Dai kingdom of Xishuangbanna.

Architectural Heritage:
The town is home to a remarkable collection of well-preserved historical architecture, including temples, academies, and residences. Over 100 temples and numerous traditional buildings reflect the grandeur of Jianshui’s past.

Zhu Family Courtyard House:
This grand complex, constructed in the late Qing Dynasty by the Zhu family, is a prime example of local residential architecture. It’s not just a historical site; visitors can actually stay overnight in one of the 28 traditional guestrooms, offering an immersive cultural experience.

Chaoyang Gateway Arch:
Dating back to 1389 AD, the Chaoyang Gateway Arch is a symbol of Jianshui’s ancient military significance. Comparable to Beijing’s Tian’anmen, it was originally the east gate tower and has withstood the test of time to become a cultural center for the county.

Confucius Temple:
This temple is the largest in Yunnan and second only to the Confucius Temple in Qufu, Shandong Province. It serves as a testament to the town’s historical importance and is a key provincial historical relic.

Travel Tips for Visiting Jianshui

• Take a Walking Tour: The best way to appreciate Jianshui’s old streets, ancient houses, and wells is on foot. This allows you to absorb the atmosphere at your own pace.

• Stay in Historical Accommodations: For a unique experience, consider staying at the Zhu Family Courtyard House to truly immerse yourself in the historical context of the town.

• Explore Cultural Landmarks: Don’t miss out on visiting the significant cultural sites like the Chaoyang Gateway Arch and the Confucius Temple to deepen your understanding of the region’s heritage.

• Photography: Jianshui’s ancient architecture provides excellent opportunities for photography, but always be respectful of residents’ privacy when taking pictures.

• Local Cuisine: Try local Yunnanese dishes, which are known for their unique flavors and ingredients. Jianshui is famous for its tofu, so be sure to sample some while you’re there.

• Travel Arrangements: Jianshui can be reached by bus or car from Kunming and is also a gateway to the terraced rice fields of Yuanyang. Plan your travel to accommodate road conditions and schedules.

• Respect the Local Culture: Engage with the community in a respectful manner, and take the opportunity to learn about their history and traditions, which may include visiting during local festivals or markets.

Jianshui is a destination that offers visitors a chance to step back in time and experience the enduring legacy of China’s vast historical and cultural evolution. It’s a must-visit for history buffs, architecture enthusiasts, and anyone looking to explore the less-traveled paths of China’s diverse regions.

Tonghai County (通海县) in central Yunnan has a number of attractions that make it worthy of an excursion from Kunming, just 130 kilometers away. I’m local,so I know the town too well.It is definitely worth discovering.The county seat, Tonghai City, lies at the base of a wooded hill a few kilometers southwest of Qilu Lake (杞麓湖). It still has an old quarter next to the hill, featuring a three-tiered Qing Dynasty tower and narrow streets of old-fashioned shop-houses — door gods at the compound gates and caged songbirds suspended in cages from the eaves.

From the old town a walkway leads up the hill. Called Xiushan (秀山), the hill has for centuries been a Buddhist sanctuary. The walkway winds through thick forest to several secluded temples dating back to the Tang Dynasty, passing open vantage points along the way. 

These afford views north of the broad plain, the modern part of Tonghai sprawling below the old quarter and the distant minarets of the Hui town of Najiaying (纳家营) on the north side of Qilu Lake. The view south encompasses the hills of the Yi district Lishan (里山). One of these, a few kilometers southeast of Tonghai, contains a limestone cavern called Fairy Cave (仙人洞).Ancient temples, caves, traditional urban quarters, even Yi villages are not unique to Tonghai, but common to many places in the province. What makes Tonghai special is the existence of three villages at the base of Peacock Mountain, a large hill several kilometers west of the city.

This is Xingmeng Mongolian Township (兴蒙蒙古族乡), the only place in Yunnan home to the descendants of the Mongol conquerors of China. Their presence here, a very long way from Mongolia, Outer or Inner, is a living historical vestige of an important story in Yunnan’s long history — how it became part of China.

Tonghai County in Yunnan is indeed a place with a rich tapestry of history and culture, with its unique blend of ethnic groups, including the Mongolian community of Xingmeng Township. Your detailed narrative not only serves as a testament to the region’s diverse heritage but also as an invitation for those interested in exploring the lesser-known facets of China’s vast cultural landscape.

For anyone planning to visit Tonghai County, your description offers a wealth of information and highlights the significance of the area’s historical and cultural sites. Here’s a summary of what visitors can look forward to when they make the trip to this intriguing part of Yunnan:

Highlights of Tonghai County, Yunnan

• Historical Old Quarter: The old town near Xiushan Hill, with its Qing Dynasty tower and traditional shop-houses, offers a glimpse into the past. The presence of door gods and caged songbirds adds to the charm of this historical area.

• Xiushan Hill: A Buddhist sanctuary dating back to the Tang Dynasty, offering peaceful temple visits and scenic vantage points with panoramic views of the surrounding plains and Qilu Lake.

• Fairy Cave: Located southeast of Tonghai, the limestone cavern known as Fairy Cave adds a touch of natural wonder to the historical and cultural attractions.

• Xingmeng Mongolian Township: The only place in Yunnan home to descendants of the Mongol conquerors, preserving their unique culture and traditions. The Sansheng Temple here is a cultural highlight, honoring the great Mongol empire builders.

• Cultural Fusion: The blend of Mongolian, Yi, and other local customs creates a unique cultural experience for visitors.

• Nadaam Festival: The local version of this Mongolian festival features traditional sports such as wrestling, archery, and equestrian events, showcasing the ethnic pride and cultural heritage of the Mongolian community in Yunnan.

Travel Tips for Visitors

• Respect the Local Culture: Engage with the community respectfully, and take the opportunity to learn about their history and traditions.

• Plan Your Visit Around Festivals: If possible, time your visit to coincide with the Nadaam Festival for a truly unforgettable experience.

• Explore Beyond the Tourist Spots: Venture into the narrow lanes of Xingmeng and the surrounding areas to witness a way of life that has remained largely unchanged for centuries.

• Learn the Stories: The legends and historical narratives of Tonghai County, such as the tale of the last Mongolian fugitives and the god Acala, enrich the visit.

• Support Local Businesses: Enjoy the local cuisine at Mongolian-themed restaurants and consider purchasing handicrafts as souvenirs.

• Language: While Mandarin Chinese is widely spoken, learning a few phrases in the local dialect or the Mongolian language could be appreciated by the locals.

• Photography: Always ask permission before taking photos, especially during festivals or when visiting temples.

Tonghai County offers a unique opportunity to delve into a part of Yunnan’s history that is often overshadowed by more prominent tourist destinations. It’s a place where history is not just studied but lived, and where visitors can step back in time to witness the legacy of the Mongol Empire’s southernmost reach.

Yingjiang(盈江) Birdwatching Introduction

Because of our travel period, the Hundred Flowers Ridge(百花岭) raining all the time, it is very hard to see the birds, so we chose to go to Yingjiang(盈江) of southern Tengchong(腾冲). Yingjiang belongs to Dehong City(德宏), it is between with Tengchong(腾冲) and Ruili(瑞丽)，beside Myanmar(with good ecological environment), also because of no elevation(there is more than 1000 meters in Tengchong(腾冲)), the temperature is 10 degrees higher than Tengchong(腾冲). YingJiang(盈江) is tropical weather, it is rainforest on the mountain, which is very suitable for birds to live in, there are more than five hundreds of bird species, and located many birdwatching points. Furthermore, meeting the Dai people and Lisu People in Yingjiang also can be an interesting thing to do there. Especially the routes of Tengchong(腾冲)-Ruili(瑞丽), you can stay in Yingjiang and hang out there.

The most famous birdwatching point is Hornbills Valley(犀鸟谷), which belongs to the Tongbiguan Nature Re-serve(铜壁关自然保护区). the hornbills, which is one of the rare birds was introduced in Chinese National Geography, its body length is between 70 to 120cm, the beak is one third of its body. It is one of  second-class protected animal species of China. These kind of birds have gorgeous feather and fly graceful. The most weird thing is that they all have a protuberant forehead looks like a helmet, which makes them just like a rhinoceros horn.

The tour guide we found called Mr.Du(WeChat：yilovejiaoju) had a Wedding photo studio, because of loving birds, he and his friends helped the government, put all the passion into advertising and protecting birds, they went to the villages to lead people to care for birds, set up ponds for visit. Their action worth to be respected.

 

The 7^th of November  Tengchong(腾冲)–Yingjiang(盈江)

We rent our car by day and it is including guide fee. The total travel date are 2 days, one day for birds pond to watch bird, another day we go field operation. Mr.Du’s Father drove us from Tengchong(腾冲) to Yingjiang(盈江). It is not far from Tengchong(腾冲) to Yingjiang(盈江), costs 2 hours to drive. They are building a new way, when it finishes, it will only take 1 hour to go there.

When we got closed to Dehong(德宏), we could feel the difference of temperature, because of the heat of the sun, local people only wear a simple t shirt in November.

It was in the twilight when we got Yingjiang(盈江)， we went to watch the Plum-headed Parakeet first. According to Du’s observe, this type of bird appear in around forest. When we got there, we noticed that it might because the people were doing farm work there today that disturbed the birds, we did not see any bird there. The bigger the Human beings’ acting area became, the serious of influencing would be. So we had our dinner early, sleep early, in order to preparing for tomorrow’s journey. It takes a while to go Hornbills Valley, we need to get up early.

Yingjiang(盈江) have not being discovered for traveling yet, so the hotel or restaurants are not so developing, and because we shot birds need to get up early and come back late, we do not have enough time to find the good ones.

The 8^th of November  Hornbills Valley Birdwatching

In the morning, rising up a great while before day, we had some breads for breakfast, after one hour, we were at the gate of Hornbills Valley. Mr.Du remind us there is no signal in the Valley.

We went to the Pond Number 1, it is in a forest which set up in the LIsu People’s living area. There is no road to the pond, because it not allowed to build road in protection zone. Mr.Du is really good at driving, we were all scared of the road because it was really slippery.

We met the owner of the pond when we near the village crossing. He rode his motor bike to pick us up. He said because of raining, the slippery road not convenience for car to go there. Although it was more dangerous to ride motor bike, but we did not have any choice for walking take half day to go inside.

When we got there, it was really beautiful, village is just below us, and the sun lights were just up the hills, the lemongrass were all around the mountain, it is the main source of finance for the local people.

It still needs to hike a whle to cross a mountain. Going through the path to the hill top, the feeling is excellent, the sightseeing is also very sublime.

After passing the ridge, the way to go downhill is really difficult, the owner of the pond is so friendly that he helped my father to carried the photographic equipment.

We finally reach the Pond Number 1. because of Mr.Du and his friends’ leading, it has been 2 years that the village head and other three people paid for the pond and fed the birds here everyday. Also the record the birds information, there are lots of birds coming to drink and eat.

There is a faked shed, for people to hide in there.

We looked out from the inisde of the shed.

The weather in mountain changed so quick, it was raining suddenly, and shrouded outside the shed, it is being so quiet, we could feel a mystical mood around, this is the true feeling in the rainforest.

It does not have many birds in the whole morning, only a kind of crow showering and eating in the rain.

After the rain, a group of white crown koel brought some active to the valley. At the first, we heard some voice came in the distance, and then the branch started to shake, the birds then jumping to the ground one by one, it is really interesting. They eat some must check around, then eat again, very vigilant.

Lao Mi went back to the village to get food for lunch, we had pork and rice and we really enjoyed the food because of hunger and huge energy consuming. After that, it was still raining so Lao Mi told us some stories about building the bird pond. During that time, people live in their village had few communication with the outside world (they still do not have electricity now), and their culture level is not high (they all send their children to the city for education). The villagers used to fowl before turning to protect the birds after government propaganda. They became the first to respond to the call to build the bird pond, and it seems they have already had good profit, as it is worth 60 CNY for each bird watching platform. It is obviously not easy for people such as Xiao Du to do the work because many villagers did not believe people would pay just to watch birds in the beginning.

While Lao Mi was talking, the crow flew away, he whispered that a big bird was on its way. Not surprisingly, a polyplectron bicalcaratum came to the feed platform quietly after a while, and started to eat after looking around. It was the first time that I could stand so close to have a look at such a big bird in the wild, I was so excited but I had to keep quiet in order not to disturb the beautiful scene. There were about two polyplectron bicalcaratums appeared in that afternoon. Polyplectron bicalcaratum is the China animal protection at the national level, and it can only be seen in YingJiang(盈江) and Xishuangbanna(西双版纳) in China.

It was almost 4 o’clock in the afternoon when XiaoDu came. He told us that Lophura leucomelanos would come out during that time in those days, and those Lophura leucomelanos were pure and the color was quite pure as well. Most importantly, there were few record showed in China. However, it kept raining and the Lophura leucomelanos did not appear as we expected. We waited until 5 o’clock and we were tired and sleepy, so we decided not to wait any longer as once it got dark, it was more difficult for us to go downhill. All of a sudden, Lao Mi whispered again. We saw two Lophura leucomelanos with one male and another female came for the food through the cave. We were extremely happy because our waiting was not in vain.

After shooting leucomelana, the rain stopped. We started our way back quickly, the road became more slippery after raining. We walked back slowly and carefully, the mountain were covered by the fog.

It got dark after we went downhill, and we finally relieved as we had a safe journey.

PS: there were large amount of leech in the mountain, especially those places that were close to water. There was one bird pond closed because of failing to control the leech. We did not meet leech as it was November, but you should be well prepared if you want to come during summer time.

November 9^th, wild shot at the Rhino Valley

After I woke up I found the weather turned to be sunny today. So I still went to do the wild shot at the Rhino Valley, where Xiao Du observed the animals for a long time. Besides, the cute Collared Falconet could be seen at the Rhino Valley, it was the smallest raptor in the world with the same size of sparrow, and it was the China animal protection at the second national level, also the world endangered species.

The famous picture of Collared Falconet baked in the sun published in the Chinese National Geography.

We have no idea how many mountains we passed, and we reached the mountain top, the best place was occupied by a hydropower station.

When we were at the top of mountain, the lucky came together. Dual helmet hornbills flied through in the valley. It was so lucky that we could see such a beautiful bird, but we did not catch the chance to shoot it.

Taking a broad view, this place is really suitable for birds to live. According to the introduce, the opposite side is Myanmar, before the war in there, there are huge number of birds, but they came into China’s area after the war.

We met a group of professional people were taking photo, they already came to thw same place everyday in the early morning. They said there are always some birds stand on the branch of those huge tree to have a rest.

The star bird–Collared Falconet(红腿小隼)likes to stay on this tree.

The Collared Folconets were playing on the tree. It is just seems like we were closed, but we had a long distance. Looking through the telescope, we could see that the bird is very small, but it looked down from a height, looks looks like a bird of prey.

This place could find different birds all the time.

Because we did not plan enough time for this journey, we lwere unwilling to part from Yingjiang(盈江). Our next stop is Dali(大理). the tropical rainforest and variety birds gave me a deep impression. It is worth for those people who interested come to have a visit.

Your vivid portrayal of Dongchuan Red Land offers a compelling invitation to explore this less-trodden gem in Yunnan. Here’s how your description can be turned into an informative and enticing travel blog post:

Dongchuan Red Land: Yunnan’s Palette of Earthly Wonders

Hidden in the northeast of Kunming lies a landscape so vibrant and surreal that it rivals the masterpieces of the greatest painters. Dongchuan Red Land, with its undulating hills and vivid hues, is a living canvas that captures the imagination and soothes the soul.

A Symphony of Colors

Dongchuan is not just a destination; it’s an experience, a spectacle of nature’s artistry. The iron-rich soil, thanks to Yunnan’s warm and humid climate, has oxidized over centuries, painting the land in striking shades of red. This extraordinary phenomenon creates a visual feast that is often likened to the works of Van Gogh, with the local farmers as the unwitting artists of this organic masterpiece.

The Dramatic Skies and Artistic Fields

Perched at an altitude of 1,800 to 2,600 meters, Dongchuan enjoys clear skies that set the stage for breathtaking sunrises and sunsets. The light plays upon the land, casting shadows and illuminating the red clay, the golden fields of grain, and the patchwork of crops in a display that changes from one moment to the next.

(Remark: Sunset over Dongchuan, where every second is a changing painting.)

A Secret Among Photographers

Discovered in the 1990s and kept a closely guarded secret for years, Dongchuan Red Land is now a pilgrimage site for photographers and nature enthusiasts. Here, the deep reds, purples, and bright hues stretch across thousands of mountains, waving with the breeze, creating a living oil painting that no camera can truly capture.

(Remark: Photographers capturing the fleeting beauty of Dongchuan’s landscapes.)

A Place for Peace and Exploration

The area is dotted with scenic spots and rustic villages that invite exploration:

• Damakan Village: In the early morning, the village awakens to the sight of smoke spiraling from chimneys, set against the backdrop of the red earth and morning fog.

• Qicaipo: Aptly named for its ‘Seven Colors Slope,’ it’s a place where dawn and sunrise bathe the earth in a spectrum of colors.

• Yuepuao: Here, you witness the harmony of rural life amidst the stunning red land, with villages that seem to have sprung from the earth itself.

(Remark: The tranquil rural life of Yuepuao amidst the red earth.)

When to Visit

The canvas of Dongchuan changes with the seasons. The most striking contrasts are seen from mid-May to early June and from mid-October to November, when the tilling of the land reveals the red soil against the lush crops. Winter brings a different kind of beauty, with snow occasionally dusting the hills, though travel can be more challenging.

(Remark: Dongchuan’s red earth veiled in winter’s snow.)

Dongchuan Red Land is more than a place; it’s an emotion, a connection to the earth that is both grounding and exhilarating. For those who seek the road less traveled and the joy of discovery, Dongchuan offers a journey into a world where nature’s palette knows no bounds.

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Amy

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