Guixia Coffee/Geisha Coffee in Yunnan

Guixia Coffee (瑰夏咖啡), also known as Geisha Coffee, is a prestigious coffee variety originally from Ethiopia, renowned for its unique floral aroma, tropical fruit flavors, and high sweetness. The coffee was first discovered in the Geisha Forest of Ethiopia in 1931 and has since gained international acclaim.

Origins and History

Geisha Coffee was discovered in 1931 in the Geisha Mountain (瑰夏山) of southwest Ethiopia. It was later sent to Kenya’s coffee research institute and introduced to Uganda and Tanzania in 1936, Costa Rica in 1953, and Panama in the 1970s. In Panama, the Don Pachi Farm (洞巴七农园) played a key role in cultivating Geisha Coffee, particularly with the efforts of Francisco Serra in distributing seeds from Costa Rica’s CATIE research center.

Geisha’s low yield and the high level of competition in the coffee market made this variety a rare and highly coveted commodity. Over time, Geisha Coffee flourished and became a champion at various international competitions, including the Panama National Geisha Cup. In 2007, it set a record by selling at $130 per pound, the highest bid in the history of competitive coffee auctions.

Key Characteristics of Geisha Coffee

Flavor Profile

• Floral Aroma: Geisha Coffee is celebrated for its exquisite floral scent, often compared to jasmine or bergamot.

• Tropical Fruit Notes: The coffee carries hints of tropical fruits such as mango, peach, and citrus, making it bright and refreshing.

• High Sweetness: Geisha coffee is known for its intense sweetness, adding a smooth finish with lingering aftertastes.

Bean Appearance

• Color: The unroasted beans of Geisha Coffee are blue-green in color.

• Processing: Geisha Coffee can be processed in various ways, including washed, natural, or honey methods, each of which highlights different flavor characteristics.

Coffee Bean Characteristics

Geisha Coffee beans are notable for their beautiful blue-green color and jade-like texture. The aroma of freshly roasted beans features distinct notes of fresh grass, peach, berry, and the unique milky sweetness of oolong tea, which is rare in most coffee beans. The subtle tea-like aroma is one of the most prominent characteristics we can distinctly identify.

To highlight the unique characteristics and fragrance of this coffee, it is roasted to just before the second crack (a common roasting level). This roast level enhances the natural qualities of the beans; if roasted too lightly, it may produce undesirable off-flavors, while over-roasting can diminish its floral aroma and fruity acidity. The ideal roast level helps maintain the delicate balance of flavors.

When roasted, the beans develop some “wrinkles,” a feature that emphasizes the original taste and acidity. However, if the raw beans are of low quality, they may produce off-flavors such as musty, earthy, or astringent notes, which should be avoided by the roaster. Properly roasted Geisha beans offer a captivating lemon-citrus fragrance with ultra-sweet honey and creamy notes.

Flavor Profile

Geisha Coffee is characterized by its floral aroma, tropical fruit flavors, and strong sweetness. With the right roasting method, these beans evoke the sensation of sipping on the fragrance of fresh flowers. Geisha, originally an ancient indigenous variety from Ethiopia, was brought to Costa Rica’s coffee experimental farm and then distributed to small farms for limited cultivation.

Geisha remained relatively obscure until the Esmeralda Farm (艾斯米拉达庄园) in Panama separated it from other varieties and introduced it to the national coffee competition, where it won first place. The remarkable fruity and floral notes of Geisha are reminiscent of Ethiopia’s Yirgacheffe (耶加雪菲) coffees.

Although Geisha was initially not widely recognized, smaller farms eventually started cultivating it. However, due to factors such as weather, soil, and altitude, the flavor profile of this “star” variety varies depending on its geographical location. In regions like Acténango (阿克特南果), Geisha retains its characteristic slender bean shape, its distinct roasting behavior, and the elegant and delicate flavors it imparts in the cup.

Dry Aroma

Geisha’s dry aroma is incredibly bright and uplifting, with distinct floral notes of rose and jasmine. It also has a honeyed grapefruit and citrus fragrance. When lightly roasted, there are hints of nutty aromas.

Wet Aroma

The wet aroma further intensifies the nutty character, especially hazelnut, and reveals more floral attributes.

Taste and Flavor

At the start, the flavor may seem more subtle and reserved compared to its initial uplifting aroma. As the coffee cools, the floral and fruity flavors emerge more prominently, providing a wonderful sensory experience. The cold aroma is exceptional, with notes of dried fruit, rose hips, orange marmalade, strawberry jam, subtle pinewood, cherry, vanilla, and rose.

With time, the coffee’s flavor evolves, and the lingering aftertaste becomes exceptionally sweet. This sweetness and its vibrant, bright acidity (especially when roasted lightly) make Geisha Coffee an outstanding coffee to savor, constantly evolving as it cools.

Geisha Coffee offers a complex and nuanced flavor profile, perfect for those who enjoy using multiple adjectives to describe a cup of coffee. It is truly a coffee that showcases the richness and complexity of its origins and has become a champion among specialty coffees worldwide.

Coffee Varieties

Panama Geisha Hacienda La Esmeralda

Geisha coffee, originating from Ethiopia, has taken the coffee world by storm, creating a revolution that displaced long-reigning champions like Jamaican Blue Mountain and Hawaiian Kona. This wild variety from Ethiopia, after a long history of cultivation and adaptation, is now planted in major coffee-growing regions across the globe. Its best-known representative comes from Panama’s La Esmeralda Farm (埃斯美拉达庄园), where Geisha coffee is produced at the highest standards.

The Esmeralda Farm was founded in 1924 by Swedish entrepreneur Hannes Eliott, initially as a cattle ranch. In 1964, it was bought by Lutleruf Biddason (露特露弗·比达松), the grandfather of Blaise Biddason (布拉以思·比达松), a former banker and UN development official, who moved to Panama in 1973. In 1987, Blaise converted much of the farm into a coffee plantation. The Biddason family’s dedication to high-quality coffee production, combined with their investment in specialized equipment in 1994, allowed the farm to focus on producing high-end coffee beans.

In 1996, Blaise and his daughter Reichella Biddason (雷切露·比达松) discovered a beautiful farm in Boquete Valley (波开梯溪谷) and purchased it. This farm became the home of Hacienda La Esmeralda, where the world-renowned Geisha coffee was cultivated under the stewardship of their son, Daniele Biddason (达尼埃露·比达松).

Geisha beans from Panama are grown at an altitude of 1,500 to 1,650 meters, which contributes to their unique flavor profile.

Panama Geisha Coffee Flavor Notes

• Dry Aroma: Tea, floral notes (magnolia, tulip), herbal plants, milk, brown sugar sweetness, and champagne-like fragrance.

• Wet Aroma: Apricot, caramel, milk, and floral notes.

• Taste: The coffee has a rich mouthfeel with a delicate pear-like tea flavor, reminiscent of premium white wine. It also carries berry-like sweetness and spicy undertones, intertwined with floral notes. The aftertaste is long-lasting with floral, fruity sweetness and a body that remains smooth and refined even as the coffee cools.

La Esmeralda Farm has won numerous awards, including 12 championship titles in various coffee competitions. Its auction records remain unmatched, setting the highest bid at $130 per pound in 2007. Other countries have also produced high-quality coffees that reached close to $50 per pound, such as the Fazenda Santa Inês (巴西Fazenda Santa Inês) in 2005, and El Injerto (危地马拉El Injerto) in 2008. However, La Esmeralda continues to set records for the highest prices and remains a leader in the global coffee industry.

Guatemala Geisha

Acatenango Valley (阿卡提兰果区) – Guatemala Geisha

In 2007, Guatemala introduced a new coffee-growing region, Acatenango Valley (阿卡提兰果区), which became the 8th official coffee region in the country. Acatenango, located in Chimaltenango Province (奇马尔滕南戈省), is known for its fertile volcanic soil, which helps to produce high-density coffee beans. The valley is surrounded by two major volcanoes: Volcan de Fuego (火山) and Volcan Acatenango (阿卡提兰果火山), the third highest volcano in Central America.

This region benefits from a significant temperature variation, with annual rainfall ranging from 48 to 72 inches. These factors contribute to the dense and well-structured coffee beans that are ideal for cultivating premium coffee. Coffee harvests typically take place from January to March.

Acatenango is still home to the Kaqchiquel (卡奇克尔) indigenous people, who continue traditional farming methods. The coffee cultivation in the region dates back to 1880 and includes more than 4,000 smallholder farmers.

Geisha Coffee Alliance in Yunnan

In November 2023, the Geisha Coffee Growers Alliance (瑰夏种植者联盟) was officially launched in Pu’er (普洱), Yunnan, marking the expansion of this prestigious coffee variety into Asia. The alliance was formed to promote Geisha coffee cultivation, sharing knowledge and best practices among coffee growers in the region.

This initiative highlights the growing importance of Yunnan’s coffee industry in the global market and aims to foster sustainable practices that benefit both producers and consumers. With Yunnan’s favorable growing conditions, the region is poised to become a key player in the global Geisha coffee market.

Geisha Coffee in Yunnan

In recent years, Yunnan Province (云南省) in China, particularly Pu’er (普洱), has become an important region for growing Geisha Coffee. In 2023, the Geisha Growers Association of Yunnan (云南瑰夏种植者联盟) was established to expand the cultivation of Geisha Coffee across Asia. The combination of Yunnan’s high altitudes, abundant sunlight, and ample rainfall creates an ideal environment for growing high-quality coffee, particularly for specialty varieties like Geisha.

Recognition and Awards

• Panama National Geisha Cup: Geisha Coffee won the Panama National Geisha Cup in 2005, 2006, and 2007, and has continued to dominate coffee competitions worldwide.

• Highest Bid Record: In 2007, Geisha Coffee sold for a record-breaking $130 per pound at the Specialty Coffee Association of America’s (SCAA) international coffee auction.

Global Impact

Geisha Coffee has become a symbol of luxury in the world of specialty coffee. Its quality and history have made it highly sought after by collectors and coffee connoisseurs alike. The coffee is now grown in various regions, including Panama, Guatemala, Colombia, and increasingly in Yunnan, China.

Guixia Coffee Successfully Planted in Ning’er Liming Township, Pu’er

Published on March 27, 2024 | Source: Yunnan Net

The 2023-2024 coffee harvest season is coming to an end, but in the Yao Fang Village (窑房村) of Liming Township (黎明乡), Ning’er Hani and Yi Autonomous County (宁洱哈尼族彝族自治县), Pu’er (普洱), red coffee cherries are still hanging on the branches. Coffee farmers are busy harvesting the first successful trial crop of Guixia Coffee (瑰夏咖啡), which has been planted and is now being harvested for the first time in this area.

Unique Flavor of Guixia Coffee

Guixia Coffee is known for its strong fruity and floral aroma, intense sweetness, and vibrant acidity. Its unique flavor profile, which cannot be found in any other type of coffee, makes it highly sought after. Often referred to as the “ceiling” of coffee bean varieties, Guixia Coffee’s scarcity, combined with its high-quality attributes, has made it a favorite in the coffee market.

However, due to its demanding requirements in terms of climate, altitude, and soil conditions, the yield of Guixia Coffee is relatively low, making it even more precious and increasing its price.

Liming Township’s Ideal Growing Conditions

Liming Township enjoys favorable climate conditions that are ideal for growing Yunnan small grain coffee (云南小粒咖啡). The total coffee-growing area in the township is 20,300 acres, ranking second in the county. Although the area has a scale advantage, the main coffee variety currently grown is Catimor (卡蒂姆), which lacks the price competitiveness compared to more popular varieties like Bourbon (黄波旁) and Guixia. In addition, the aging coffee trees have led to a decline in yield, affecting farmers’ income. This has made it necessary to improve the coffee variety, enhance quality, and transition to the production of specialty coffee.

The Beginning of Guixia Coffee in Liming Township

In 2020, Chen Junjie (陈俊杰), the manager of the Eagle Rock Coffee Base (老鹰岩咖啡基地) in Yao Fang Village, became the first to plant Guixia Coffee in the area. He planted 60 acres of Guixia coffee saplings in the forests of Eagle Rock. After careful management, 40 acres of Guixia Coffee began production during the 2023-2024 harvest season, marking the first successful trial cultivation of this variety in the township. It is expected that around 10 tons of fresh coffee cherries will be harvested in this season, which will mainly be processed into coffee beans and exported to places like Hong Kong (香港). The total value of this crop is expected to exceed 1.5 million yuan, far surpassing the economic benefits of Catimor Coffee.

The Benefits of Variety Improvement

The benefits of planting improved coffee varieties are clearly visible to the farmers. To meet market demand and enhance coffee quality while improving farmers’ income, Liming Township has actively promoted the cultivation of Guixia Coffee in suitable areas. Currently, nearly 300 acres of Guixia Coffee have been planted in the township, and the improvement of coffee varieties is steadily progressing.

Economic Impact and Future Plans

For the 2023-2024 coffee harvest season, Liming Township is expected to achieve a coffee output value of more than 40 million yuan, significantly increasing the income of local farmers.

Looking ahead, Liming Township plans to capitalize on the opportunities presented by the “One County, One Industry” (一县一业) development strategy for the coffee industry in Ning’er County (宁洱县). The township will continue to focus on fine-tuning coffee farm management, iterating coffee varieties, deepening coffee processing, and building strong coffee brands. The goal is to further enhance the value-added products and empower rural revitalization through the combination of industry, products, and branding, making coffee the “ruby” that contributes to the increased income and prosperity of local communities.