Entertainment of Dehong Dai and Jingpo Autonomous Prefecture
Dehong was called “Ancient Mengmao Kingdom” in the recording of The Pattra Sutra; it was named as the “Dianyue Elephant Riding Kingdom” under the pen of Simaqian; it was the Jinchi Kingdom in the book of “Marcopolo and His Travels”. Dehong is not only the outlet of the ancient “The Southwest Silk Road of China”, but also the outlet of the Yunnan-Myanmar Road. At present,it is still the golden port leading to South Asia and Southeast Asia. Since its founding in 1953, the Dehong Dai-Jingpo Autonomous Prefecture has been a great concern of the leaders of the CPC Central Committee and the State Council. The older generation of party and state leaders such as Mao Zedong, Liu Shaoqi, Zhou Enlai concerns the troops stationed in border areas, cadres and the people of all nationalities. Whatever, different ethnic groups live in the pure land in harmony.
The area was declared an autonomous region in 1953, and in May 1956 became an autonomous prefecture. In 1960 when interprovincial migration took place many farmers came to Yunnan to farm bananas. This was during the “Great Leap Forward” when a biologist working for Mao Zedong wrote an article about the weather in Yunnan being very suitable for bananas to be planted. A very long time ago before this many Chinese were in fact very scared of going there because of an illness that lurked about. It was later discovered that this was an identifiable tropical disease. The farmers helped to get rid of the disease. They made clearings, roads and space for fields and plantations.
Dehong region was inhabited long before Emperor Wu (Han Dynasty 156 – 87 BC) decided to pave parts of the Southern Silk Road in 109 BC. The Southern Silk Road was an important trade route through the mountains and valleys of Yunnan, linking Baoshan with Dehong and delving far into Burma, India and other bordering countries. During the Han and Tang Dynasties (618 -907 AD) this line of communication created ties between China and the countries in Asia, Africa and Europe. It also played a role in developing the economy and culture of the minority groups on China’s southwestern border.
In 1277, Kublai Khan fought a famous battle in Baoshan, the neighboring region to Dehong. With 12,000 Mongol troops, Khan beat out the 60,000 Burmese soldiers and their 2,000 elephants in large-scale warfare against the Burmese king. As the story goes, Khan’s archers were able to start a stampede of the Burmese elephants back against their own lines. Khan then left relatives to govern from within walled towns.
Later, the area was mainly controlled by hereditary land owners. In the 1940s, 250,000 Chinese troops fought to keep the Japanese from invading through Burma. The Japanese Air Force repeatedly bombed the Flying Tigers base not far from Dehong. The Flying Tigers were a volunteer group from the American army who trained in Burma before the Americans joined WWII. They are famous for downing 300 enemy aircraft with a loss of only twelve of their own in combat.
In most recent times, Dehong has gotten a reputation for the types of weird and wonderful goods that have passed through the border. Yunnan’s most western town, Ruili, has especially become notorious for being the main entry point for Burmese heroin to China. The illegal drug trafficking has lead to a local pun “Feed a chicken in China and you get an egg in Burma.”
The original inhabitants of Dehong plain are mainly Dai ethnic minority, an ethnic minority with a long history and civilization. The men are gentle and kind, and the women are elegant and hardworking. The mountainous residents are mainly Jingpo people. This is a minority that migrated from the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau in ancient times. They are brave and unrestrained. Here, travelers can dance with the elegant ethnic girls and play the drum with the strong boys. Dancing peacocks and beautiful songs will gain your attentions.
Dai, Jingpo, Lisu, Achang and De’ang live here generation by generation. These ethnic minority live cross border. They keep the trade contacts and cultural exchanges.
Festivals
1.The Water-splashing Festival is the traditional festival of Dai and De’ang nationalities, held on the New Year’s Day in Dai Calendar in middle of April.
2.Munaozongge is the traditional festival of Jingpo Nationality. It used to be held during sacrifice offering and ceremony on 15th of the first month of each year.
3.The Kuoshi Festival is also called the New Year Celebrating Festival. It is a grand event of Lisu people, who, during the festival, male and female, old and young, dance and singing hand in hand for the whole night around a bonfire.
4.Aluwoluo Festival is the most important festival of Achang ethnic minority, deriving from ancient religious ceremony.
Religion
Hinayana Buddhism is the major religion in Dehong. Dai and De’ang ethnic minorities believe in it. The pagodas and Zhuangfang (temple in Dai villages) are built in every Dai villages, which are the typical architectures in Dehong. The representative architectures is the Menghuan Grand Golden Pagoda. Most of villages will pray in Zhuangfang and pagodas in certain time.
Jingpo people worship nature and their ancestors, which can be seen in their sacrifice ceremony.
Custom
Dai and Jingpo ethnic minorities are the major ones here.
At first, Dai ethnic minority live in the plain and they do well in agriculture. They like living in group and teamwork. They respect the old and cherish the young and help each other. In daily life, they are good at handicraft, like bamboo weaving and brocade. Dai ethnic minority favors dancing and singing which is necessary in ceremony, labor work and festivals.
Jingpo ethnic minority live among the mountain, so they have good hunting skill. The sword is taken with the men all the time. Brocade and embroidery are the necessary skill of Jingpo girls. All of their dress are made by themselves. The colorful and unique dresses are their best work. They worship the nature and their ethnic hero. The goup dancing in Munaozongge Festival represents Jingpo’s enthusiasm and solidarity.
Costume
Dai people:the traditional men clothes include open-front coat with tight sleeves and no collar, long loose trousers, and a pink, green or white turbans. In addition, Dai men carry satchels at their sides and carry swords at the girdle.Women clothes include open-front coat with tight sleeves and loop laps and sarong. Their waistbands are usually silver ones.
Jingpo people:there are daily costume, festival costume and ritual costume. Women’ daily costume consists of a collarless blouse, colorful skirts, bags, earrings etc., and men’ s daily costume consist of white or blue-purple cloth turbans, round-collar shirts, short black trousers, bags and swords. They will add more decoration and accessory to the festival and ritual costume.
Over 20 minorities live in Dehong Dai and Jingpo Autonomous Prefecture, including Dai, Jingpo, Achang, Lisu and De’ang ethnic groups. There are colorful cultural events with ethnic characteristics, including the world’s largest ethnic mass dance, Munao Zongge. As the cradle of the Dai ethnic group, the prefecture still well keeps Nandian Propitiatory Commissioner’s Office Building, the “Dai palace.” Here is full of deep pauk-phaw (brotherhood) between the people of China and Myanmar, colorful cultures of ethnic groups, unique religion and beautiful landscape.
In times past, Dehong was an important place along the ancient Silk Road. Today, it is a key part of the Yunnan-Burma Road and is home to a number of vivid cultural products. Dehong’s two ports of Ruili and Wanding play an important role in connecting China and the other countries in Asia.
Falling in line with the country’s Belt and Road Initiatives, Dehong Dai and Jingpo autonomous prefecture have constructed a comprehensive cultural industry, which comprises of the jewelry cultural industry, rosewood cultural industry, folk crafts industry and folk entertainment industry.
Jade carving art work (Photo from chinadaily.com.cn)
Jewelry cultural industry
Emerald necklace art work (Photo from chinadaily.com.cn)
Dehong is located at the intersection of the world’s two biggest gem mineralized tectonic belts and is close to the gem-rich country of Burma. Yunnan also has a long tradition of jewelry trade and cultural exchanges with Burma, resulting in a prominent advantage in raw materials imports. Yunnan currently sits at the frontier of the jewelry industry.
In recent years, Dehong jewelry culture industry has formed a complete industrial chain including the import of raw materials, production, research and design. More than 8,000 jewelers from different places have gathered in Yunnan province. Some local brands such as Wang Chaoyang and Dong Yuchun have become well-known brands in jewelry industry.
Rosewood cultural industry
Rosewood boutique (Photo from chinadaily.com.cn)
Thanks to Dehong’s unique geographical advantage, it has become the rosewood resource center of Southeast and South Asia. With the country’s rapid economic development, Dehong’s rosewood furniture industry has also developed rapidly in the last 10 years.
According to statistics, there are more than 410 enterprises-including more than 70 mid-sized enterprises-carrying out rosewood production, processing and marketing businesses in Dehong. The number of employees in Dehong’s rosewood industry amounts to almost 20,000, including designers and carvers.
Cucurbit flute cultural industry
Finished rosewood cucurbit flutes (Photo from chinadaily.com.cn)
As curcubit flute music from musician Gen Dequan has been widely spread at home and abroad, Dehong has gradually formed a complete cucurbit flute cultural industrial chain.
As a traditional instrument of Dai, Achang and De’ang ethnicities, the history of the cucurbit flute dates back to the pre-Qin era (the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, 770-221 BC).
The Lianghe cucurbit flute has been declared as the only national geographical indications instrument in China by the General Administration of Quality Supervision, Inspection and Quarantine.
In times past, Dehong was an important place along the ancient Silk Road. Today, it is a key part of the Yunnan-Burma Road and is home to a number of vivid cultural products. Dehong’s two ports of Ruili and Wanding play an important role in connecting China and the other countries in Asia.
Falling in line with the country’s Belt and Road Initiatives, Dehong Dai and Jingpo autonomous prefecture have constructed a comprehensive cultural industry, which comprises of the jewelry cultural industry, rosewood cultural industry, folk crafts industry and folk entertainment industry.
Husa knife production industry
Husa knife (photo from chinadaily.com.cn)
The Husa knife originated in the Husa Achang ethnic settlements in Longchuan county and is also referred to as the Achang knife. The Husa knife has been included as a national intangible cultural heritage and is favored by domestic and foreign merchants.
On May 20, 2006, Achang knife forging skills were approved to be included in the first baaatch of national intangible cultural heritage by the State Council. The Achang knife has a long history and was favorable in the early in the Ming and Qing Dynasties (1368-1911). The knife is currently exported to different countries and regions, including Burma.
Ethnic brocade culture
Brocade from the Dai ethnic group (photo from chinadaily.com.cn)
Dehong has the geographical advantage of being located along the ancient Silk Road. Dai brocade is influenced by Shu brocade in its weaving techniques.
In 2008, the Dai brocade technique was approved by the State Council and included in the second batch of national intangible cultural heritage. Dai brocade has a vivid color and evokes a strong visual impact with its bright colors, high purity and high saturation. Its red, yellow and green colors form a sharp contrast with the black and dark red bottom.
Dai brocade industry produces many traditional and modern products, such as Tongpa (bag), skirts and tablecloths.
Entertainment of Lincang City
During Shang dynasty, the place called “Baihuai”. In the period of the republic of china, it set up Shunning county(顺宁县), Yunxian county(云县), Mianning county(缅宁县), Zhenkang county(镇康县), shuangjiang county(双江县) and Cangyuan and Gengma administrative bureau. In the early year of New China, counties in now Lincang city belong to Baoshan prefecture(保山专区), Dali prefecture(大理专区) and pu’er prefecture(普洱专区) respectively. In 1952, Mianning county(current Linxiang district) which once belonged to Dali prefecture, Shuangjiang county and Gengma county which belonged to Baoshan prefecture and Cangyuan county which belonged to Pu’er prefecture, four counties were marked off to establish Mianning prefecture(缅宁专区). From 1953 to 1956, Zhenkang county, Shunning county and Yunxian county were drawn from Baoshan prefecture and Dali prefecture. Mianning prefecture was changed to Lincang Prefecture(临沧专区) in 1954 and Lincang district in 1970. On December 26th, 2003, the state council approved the cancellation of Lincang District(临沧地区) and set up prefecture-level Lincang city.
Cangyuan Cliff Paintings
The cliff paintings of Cangyuan is said to take on different colors as the time, weather and humidity change. According to the proverb of the local Wa and Dai people that the cliff painting changes three times a day: in the morning the color is red, at noon lighter and in the evening purple. Nowadays the paintings have already been designated as the key historical relic protection unit at the provincial level.
Up to now, eleven painted cliffs have been found to scatter in several villages of Cangyuan County and Dima County etc. Called Randianmu (染典姆) which means the paintings on the rocks in the local Wa language, these reddish brown ancient paintings were basically drawn on the grey limestone at the elevation of about 1500 meters. Measuring somewhere between one to thirty square meters, these primitive masterpieces are normally two to ten meters above the ground and include the images of animals, architectures, trees, boats, heavenly bodies like the sun or the moon, mountains and many abstract symbols etc. Human figures and lively life scene are also the important themes of these artistic works on the sharp cliffs. The eyes, nose and other facial details of the human face are normally omitted; the painters instead paid more attention to the depiction of the human body and limbs. Apart from artistic meanings and value, many important life activities of these human ancestors such as hunting, dancing, recreation and sacrifice rituals and suchlike are vividly displayed and recorded, which seems to bring the viewers back to those mysterious and remote prehistoric ages.
Tips: The tour of viewing the cliff painting is subject to the weather condition. Visitors who plan to see the painting should therefore consult the local travel agent about the timing of their visit in advance. Lincang is rich in rainfall and the rainy season comes from May until October.
DongJing Buddhist Temple
In the main hall of the DongJing Buddhist Temple(洞景佛寺), there are a gold statue of Sakyamuni and 22 statues of the Laughing Budda (Mile Buddha or Buddha of the future). This temple is particularly notable in southeastern Asian countries because it is home to the Buddha relic of Sakyamuni. According to the archeological record, after Sakyamuni passed away and was cremated, his bone, called “sarīra” in Sanskrit, was divided into eight shares, which were distributed across the region. The Buddha’s holy relic or sarīra was believed to bear the Buddha’s supreme power and thus be able to save all the lives on the earth. One of the eight shares was buried and worshiped in this temple. When the restoration of the temple was launched in 1994, 69 Buddha statues and a large quantity of jewelry, bronze statues and small pagodas were found in the site. Among the unearthed two pieces of bronze inscriptions mention the historical event of burying the Buddha’s holy bone here. One piece of 3 cm long transparent finger-like crystal is the holy bone, the discovery of which makes the temple more mysterious, holy and attractive to Buddhist followers from all over the world.
Location: Mengding Town, Gengma County.
Transportation: take regular bus from Gengma to Mengding.
Lincang Tea Culture and Customs Garden
As the home of Yunnan black tea, the area has the largest tea garden and the greatest tea output in Yunnan. It has more than 5500 mu ancient tea plants and has done for over 3200 years.
Entertainment of Puer City
More than 1,700 years ago a small batch of Pu’er was sold to Tibet. It quickly became a daily necessity for Tibetans to supplement their basic diet of meat and cheese. Tibetans say: ‘Living without food for three days is better than going without [Pu’er] tea for a single day.’ Yunnan is a land of rugged mountains and steep valleys which meant that Pu’er was transported strapped to horses and could take months before it reached its destination. This was the beginning of the Ancient Tea Horse Road and during the slow journey the Pu’er would naturally ferment. The people enjoyed the richer full-bodied taste as well as the fragrant aroma, and the Pu’er we know today was born. Over the centuries Pu’er has been a key player in the history of Asia and beyond: For more than a thousand years premium Pu’er was offered to the Emperor of China as Tribute Tea. The Chinese Imperial Army traded Pu’er bricks with Genghis Khan and the Tibetans for their strong horses. Pu’er Money Traders have used Pu’er bricks as money in China, Mongolia, Tibet and Russia. Pu’er was even well known among the native people of northern Canada who were trading across the Bering Strait. It was greatly prized by the Tang Dynasty, and today the best Pu’er per ounce sells at auction for many times more than the price of gold.
Made from fresh leaves of big-leaf tea trees of Yunnan, Pu’er Tea has a distinctive aroma thanks to the special fermentation procedure in the processing steps. Pu’er Tea is big and rough in shape, black or brown red in color and the soup tastes mellow, leaving a sweet aftertaste. The tea is mild in nature and does no harm to the stomach. At the same time, it has medicinal effects of “fat removing, body slimming and digestion promoting” and is called “cosmetic tea” or “slimming tea”.
Pu’er Tea can be made into tea bricks after being steamed and compressed for easy storage. The nature of the tea varies – the taste changes with the length of time it’s stored; the longer it’s stored, the better it tastes. Thus, Pu’er Tea not only makes a good drink, but also a valuable collector’s item.
Tourists to Yuxi can choose an early morning or nightfall to stroll along the streets, parks, or resicential districts to watch spontaneously organized people acting the opera. Both actors and audience are intoxicated with the spirit of the festival. It is a best place to experience the simple folk custom and strong local flavor in Yuxi.
Yuxi Huadeng Opera Troupe of Yunnan Province
The Yuxi Huadeng Opera Troupe of Yunnan Province, founded in October 1952, is a troupe with performers from the Han people and some ethnic groups including Hui, Yi Hani, Bai, Mongolian, Wa, Naxi and Lahu.
Since its founding, the art troupe has re-arranged or adapted about 100 outstanding traditional Huadeng Opera programs as part of its repertoire, including Jade medicine Jar, Cudgel with a Magic Healing Power, Gilded Fan, Monkeying Around in the Vegetable Garden, Zhuo Mei and Ah Luo, among others. Zhuo mei and Ah Luo was once staged during the Fifth China Opera Award and other six single awards. The newly choreographed modern Huadeng Operas include Barracks, Bloodshed on Jia-sa River, Affection and Love, Honeysuckle and Bamboo Fence, the last two being prize-winners of the 3rdand 6thWenhua New Opera Awards and the Excellent Opera Program Award of the national Modern Opera Exchange Performance.
The troupe’s production crew includes playwrights Li Hongyuan and Ma Lianghua, performers Ma Zhongliang, Xu Baolong and Yang Liqiong.
Address: No.31, Yujianglu Route, Yuxi, Yunnan Province
Post code: 653100
Tel: (0877) 2023807
The Nie’er Park
The Nie’er Park is situated in the south of Yuxi City; newly built in memory of the People’s Composer Nie’er. It composes mainly of the Memorial Hall of Nie’er, the Purple Art Garden, and Zhiying Lake, all of which are of strict structures and beautiful buildings surrounded by green trees and flowers. It is a perfect combination of modern, graceful and majestic ethnic features. The Bronze Statue of Nie’er stands right in the center of the park.
Huilong Ecology Garden (Dayingjie)
skiing grass, hot spring, dodgem, tennis, frog bumping and other entertainment projects.
Huixi Park (Dayingjie)
With an area of 240 mu ( 16 hectares), exhibition hall of rare animals & plants, 43 ethnic houses.
Tianziyuan Hot Spring of Eshan (East Xiaojie Town of Eshan County)
8 kilometers from Eshan County Town; 30 kilometers from Yuxi City; 120 kilometers from Kunming.
Holiday Village of Elephant Trunk Hot Spring
One star hotel, 9 kilometers from Huaning County Town; 142 kilometers from Kunming.
Holiday Village of Yingyuetan Hot Spring (Dayingjie)
28 swimming pools of Japanese style.
Lingzhao Temple (10 kilometers from east Yuxi City)
set up in the Yuan Dynasty at Lingzhao Mountain.
Yuquan Temple (Dayingjie)
with an area of 60 mu ( 4 hectares), consists of Daxiong Palace, Druggist Palace, Dicang Palace, Zushi Palace, Caishen Palace and etc.
Yuxi Nightclubs
Hongta Nightclub
Add.: Hongta Avenue, Yuxi City
Tel.: 86-877-2066666
Zhongyu Nightclub
Add.: Nie’er Road, Yuxi City
Tel.: 86-877-2053888
Longma Nightclub
Add.: Hongta Avenue, Yuxi City
Tel.: 86-877-2073366
Yinxing Club
Add.: Tongzhan Road, Yuxi City
Tel.: 86-877-2060866
Hongta Entertainment Center
Add.: The South Dongfeng Road
Tel.: 86-877-2966477
Yuxi Museums
Yuxi Museum (Hongta Avenue, Yuxi City)
paleaontolog hall, stone wares of the Stone Ages, Bronzewares hall, pottery hall, picture hall and etc.
Jiangchuan Bronzewares Museum (Jiangchuan County)
over 4000 pieces of bronze wares, dated back to the Spring and Autumn Period or the Western Han Dynasty.
Yuxi — Home of Humanity’s Ancestor and China’s Heroes
IF Vienna is the spiritual home to the masters of classical music, then Yuxi might enjoy the same accolade for modern musicians. This is because it is the birthplace of Nie Er (1912-1935), composer of the national anthem of the People’s Republic of China.
Yuxi’s connotations reach beyond music to human life on earth in general. The Yuanmou Man (homo erectus yuanmouensis) archaeological site in Chu-xiong Autonomous Prefecture, believed to be one of the earliest human settlements, dates back 2.5 million years. But the group of mollusk fossils excavated in Maotianshan of Yuxi unlocks secrets from 530 million years ago. It was here that the Naraoia fossil, which is the common ancestor of all reptiles and mammals, was found.
War and Peace
Located in the hinterland of Yunnan Province, Yuxi, a city with a long history, is known as Yunnan’s “heart of jade.” Yuxi was seat of the Baipu Kingdom in China’s Shang and Zhou dynasties (1600-256 BC), and around 2,000 years ago was the center of the ancient Dian Kingdom. It was a prosperous flourishing capital of diverse ethnic cultures until its collapse during the Three Kingdoms Period (220-280) and Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties (220-589). The Erhai region then took up its mantle as political, cultural and economic center of Yunnan, and Yuxi fell into obscurity.
After a millennium of peace, intensive war in the spirit of national defense erupted in Yuxi in the form of the Chongjiu Rebellion. When the call for national salvation from Japanese aggression was the theme of the era, the bravery of armies from Yuxi fighting Japanese aggression earned them honor throughout the nation. It was at this crucial time that Yuxi’s young musician Nie Er composed the inspiring March of the Volunteers, as sung by soldiers and residents of the Shaanxi-Gansu-Ningxia Border Area and Shanxi-Chahar-Hebei Base Area. The 200th Division of the National Revolutionary Army, whose brave resistance to Japanese aggression won them fame and honor, made it their battle hymn.
White to Red
Although Nie Er has gone, his memory lives on. Zhiyin Lake in Yuxi’s Nie Er Park is in the shape of a violin. A bronze statue of Nie Er in a conducting posture stands on a black jade plinth there, as his compositions resound throughout the square.
The red pagoda, the most prominent landmark of Yuxi, can be seen from every corner of the city, earning it the reputation of “one origin and four homes,” the former meaning the origin of life – as in the 530-million-year-old palaeontological fossil excavated in Maotian Mountain, Chengjiang County – and the latter referring to Yuxi as the birthplace of Nie Er and the home of Yunnan tobacco, of the Lantern Festival, and of the rivers and lakes on the plateau.
Climbing the red steps up Hongta (Red Pagoda) Mountain, I felt as though I was experiencing the half-century history of the Hongta Group. Built in the Yuan Dynasty (1271-1368), the Hongta (Red Pagoda) was originally called the Baita (White Pagoda). In earlier times the spectacular view of the White Pagoda at sunset was famous throughout China. In the late Qing Dynasty (1644-1911), war and turbulence left Baita (White Pagoda) Mountain bleak and desolate.
The Yuxi Cigarette Factory was founded in 1958. At that time, when red flags fluttered throughout China, Yuxi Cigarette Factory workers painted the White Pagoda red and renamed it the Red Pagoda. There is a haunting poem inscribed at the foot of Hongta Mountain, telling its tale of prosperity:
“Red pagoda, green waters,
Fairies envy Yuxi natives.”
Mountain Caravans
Mountains form the backbone of Yunnan.
Situated within the combined belt of two first-level geotectonic units, Yuxi has a complicated geologic structure. Karst topography, fluvial and tectonic landforms and other ancient geological movements have contributed to Yuxi’s striking and diverse landscapes.
Ailao Mountain, Mopan Mountain, and Liangwang Mountain appear as stilts supporting Yuxi. Most famous among them is Ailao Mountain, which I went to see one foggy morning.
Ailao Mountain Nature Reserve in Xinping County is the natural and geologic combination of the Yunnan-Guizhou Plateau, Hengduan Ranges, and south side of the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau. The largest mountain range west of the Yunnan-Guizhou Plateau, Ailao Mountain is also the junction of the East Asian Tropical Monsoon and South Asian Tropical Monsoon. The 400-kilometer-long “green dragon” that Ailao Mountain resembles tempers the climate in Yunnan and contributes a scattering of green cities throughout the province. In 1998, Ailao Mountain was listed a UNESCO “Man and the Biosphere Programme” forest ecosystem observation station.
Ailao Mountain’s best known scenic spots include the Nan’en Waterfalls, the Ancient Tea-Horse Trail, Shimen Gorge, the Longxi Clan Mansions, and Jinshan Pass, all of which are near Gasa Town.
The Ancient Tea-Horse Trail on Ailao Mountain is a good place to start a sightseeing trip in Yuxi. This time-honored scenic route, with its millennia-old flagstones and hoof prints amid fallen leaves and moss, connect the ancient and modern, yesterday and today.
Abundant ancient trees frame the sky, and flowers fragrance and bird song accentuate the mountain’s forest tranquility. The Tea-Horse Trail on Ailao Mountain was one of three in ancient times. Among them the Yinan Route to Dali and Ailao Mountain started in Pu’er. After the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644), the Yinan Route started from Yunnan’s capital, Kunming, and extended through Laos and Thailand, so becoming both the official and business route connecting Yunan with central China and countries beyond the southern border.
The Yinan Route was once known as the southern “Silk Road.” Traveled since the Tang Dynasty (618-907), it flourished from the Song Dynasty (960-1279) to the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911), and reached its pinnacle during the Republic of China period (1912-1949). Before the establishment of the People’s Republic of China, at least 800 horses and mules and 1,000 traders daily trod this route. Ailao Mountain’s name signifies a place where there are wild beasts, such as tigers, leopards and pythons, as well as fist sized mosquitos, and also gorgeous flowers and butterflies. In former times, this mountainous route resounded with the clip clop of horse caravans. What they carried and their encounters are recorded on the flagstones along the way.
Nan’en Waterfall and Shimen Gorge are neighboring attractions on the mountain. Nan’en in the Dai language means “silver water.” In the wet season the falls’ thunder as they cascade 100 meters from a huge rock slab can be heard several kilometers away. Beside the main waterfall are the Cixiongjian Falls, the Lienü Falls, the Shouweng Falls, and others, all of which form a rare and magnificent group of waterfalls. After walking less than a kilometer from Nan’en Waterfall I arrived in Shimen Gorge, also known as Ailao Mountain’s Jiuzhaigou (a nature reserve and national park located in northern Sichuan Province).
Shimen Gorge, flanked by cliffs and with a river running through it, is noted for its various natural rock crosscuts. There are more than 10 within two kilometers, the first to the last within less than a 100-meter drop. A plank road at the valley entrance leads to the mountain top, and giant trees and craggy rocks filter the sun’s rays. Visitors making their way to the summit can enjoy as they walk the beauty of deep emerald streams and the scents of flowers and ferns. I happened to meet at the third rock crosscut a group of Dai girls. Dressed in traditional Huayao wear, distinctive for the several meter long rainbow-tinted cummerbund wound around the waist, these young Dai women enhanced the beauty of the entire valley.
I must say that although Yuxi’s Mopan and Liangwang mountains are striking, I most admire Xiushan Mountain in Tonghai. In the Ming and Qing dynasties, Xiushan Mountain had the honor of being named “Best Landscape in Southern Yunnan” and, along with Jinma Mountain and Biji Mountain in Kunming, and Diancang Mountain in Dali, being counted among Yunnan’s Four Famous Mountains. Ming Dynasty travel writer and geographer Xu Xiake (1587-1641) once wrote of Xiushan Mountain: “Speaking of magnificent mountains, I believe Tonghai, which is in Yidong Circuit, is the best.” Xiushan Mountain is thus a historical attraction. More than 2,060 meters high, it was developed and its temples and gardens built in the Han Dynasty (202 B.C. – A.D. 220). During the Yuan (1279-1368), Ming (1368-1644) and Qing (1644-1911) dynasties it was a Buddhist shrine. Comprising 64 separate buildings, the ancient temple complex includes Puguang Temple, Qingliangtai, and Yongjin Temple and Bailong Temple. All the constructions are elaborate, delicate, and distinct from each other with striking architectural features signifying the era in which they were built. There are plaques inscribed with couplets on almost every pavilion and shrine ranging from the Han to the Qing dynasties. Small but exquisite Xiushan Mountain is thus site of the largest number of couplets of any in China.
More than 200 years ago, an official wrote a poem after returning to his hometown upon his retirement:
The lonely city overlooking water, its back against a mountain,
Reminds me of the rainy season in Jiangnan.
The mountain in the poem is Xiushan Mountain (Jiangnan refers to regions south of the Yangtze River) which was a cultural paradise in the Ming and Qing dynasties. The poem thus signifies the strong cultural connotations of this frontier mountain.
Lakes, the Spirit of Yuxi
Fuxian, Xingyun, and Qilu lakes in Yuxi are among the nine most beautiful lakes in Yunnan.
Fuxian Lake is the largest lake at the source of the Pearl River (Zhujiang). Fuxian means “supporting fairies.” Legend has it that the immortals Xiao and Shi once stood beside one another in a boat among the rocks on southeast Fuxian Lake, their arms around one another’s shoulders as their shadow loomed over the lake surface.
Aside from its incomparable beauty, Fuxian Lake is also the deepest alpine freshwater lake in China. Wide to its north and narrowing to its southern banks, its shape is like a calabash.
The lake covers an area of 216 square kilometers, and is hence Yunnan’s largest-capacity water resource. With a capacity of 20.6 billion cubic meters, Fuxian holds 12 times the amount of water of Dianchi Lake and 6 times that of Erhai Lake. Best of all, Fuxian Lake is unpolluted. The lake water is category one drinking water, with a diaphaneity of seven to 10 meters.
Fuxian Lake has a magnificent coastal landscape which includes the “Four Ancient Views and Four Unique Views.”
The first ancient view is the paleontological fossil group excavated in Maotian Mountain that is a manifestation of the Cambrian Explosion, and unlocks the mystery of life’s origins. It is acknowledged as the most striking archaeological excavation of the 20th century.
The second ancient view is the Ancient Yunnan Bronze Culture excavated in Lijia Mountain, Jiangchuan County, and site of more than 200 ancient tombs. Only 85 have been excavated, and unexpectedly found to contain more than 5,000 items of bronze ware.
The third ancient view is that of the ruins of an ancient submerged city in Fuxian Lake. Archeologists are still undecided on whether the city is site of an ancient Dian Kingdom, or of an emperor’s tomb, or the site of Yuyuan County of the Western Han Dynasty (206 B.C.- A.D. 24 ). They remain mystified after almost 10 years of underwater explorations that include constant and unaccountable discoveries. Two sun-like images and one item of architecture resembling an Egyptian pyramid have given rise to suspicions that aliens might have a hand in this architectural complex on the lakebed, which is larger even than the capital city of the ancient Dian Kingdom.
As for the lake’s “Four Unique Views,” I mention just one – the mystical big fish and the mackerel shoal.
Large fish lives in Fuxian Lake’s depths, according to local residents. How large? Some say larger than a man, others say larger than a door or as big as a yacht. On July 29, 1992, a peasant named Zhang Zhiliang finally hooked a 1.56-meter-long, 64 kilogram mackerel. Experts say it is the largest fish ever caught from a freshwater lake in China. Strange to say that the day after this big catch, shoals of fish converged at the spot where the jumbo mackerel had been caught. They appeared to be in desperately search of something.
The mackerel shoal has been photographed twice. Locals spotted in the summer of 1981 a giant shoal of thousands of fish. Among them was a fish described as bigger than a cow. More than 10 meters long, mackerel and whitefish acted as its body guards in a neat and spectacular formation, like officials accompanying an emperor on an imperial tour.
Upon arrival at Fuxian Lake I witnessed spectacular sights on its white beach of magnificently dressed couples posing for wedding photographs. The deep blue water, clear sky, and beach conjured the ambience of being by the sea. “Watch the sunrise,” “enjoy fishing in the afternoon,” “overlook the lake view in the evening,” and “appreciate the moon” are charming views that have been popular since the Song Dynasty (960-1279). All can be seen today at Fuxian Lake. A visit to this scenic lake is a chance to explore its mysteries while luxuriating in its lake and beach scenery.
The Homesick of Southern China
Many ethnic minority groups, including the Yi, Dai, Hani, Lahu, Bai, Miao, and Hui, live in Yuxi. There are consequently diverse festivals here throughout the year. They include the Huayao Dai Huajie Festival (a festival for young lovers) in Xinping, the Yi Torch Festival in Eshan, the Hani Shiyuenian Festival (the most important festival for Hani people, similar to the Han Spring Festival) in Yuanjiang, and the Mongol Yizu (commemorating ancestors) Festival, the latter of which came as a surprise to me. I knew people of various ethnic groups lived in Yuxi, but I had no idea that there was a Mongolian Autonomous County — Xingmeng County — in the very south of China. Its history goes back to 1253, when the grandson of Genghis Khan (1162-1227) conquered Yunnan with an army of 100,000 soldiers, many of whom later settled in Yunnan. In 1381, when the Yuan Empire’s rule of Yunnan ended, Mongolian officers who had guarded Qutuoguan escaped from Ming army attacks and survived to be the only Mongolian community daring to retain their names and ethnic dress.
My schedule was too tight to visit this community. But I admire the people of this ethnic group, who retain the dream of their native grasslands. Over the past 700 years, many have probably returned to their home beyond the Great Wall in their dreams. Galloping home on horseback should be the endeavor of every generation. But their dreams seldom come true.
Yuxi is the freshest ink and wash painting in Yunnan Province, and deserves the time it takes for full appreciation.
Yuxi City (玉溪市) derived its name from water. The Yuxi River (玉溪河), recorded as Qiao River (桥水) in the Commentary on the Water Classic (Shui Jing Zhu, 《水经注》), was already referred to as “Yuxi” in Ming Dynasty literature, inspired by the river’s clear jade-like appearance.
As of 2021, Yuxi City (玉溪市) had 6 national-level protected cultural heritage sites, 23 at the provincial level, 53 at the municipal level, and 176 at the county level.
As of 2021, Yuxi City (玉溪市) had 6 items listed on the national intangible cultural heritage list, 40 at the provincial level, 166 at the municipal level, and 324 at the county level.
Xinping is the largest settlement area of the Huayao Dai (花腰傣) ethnic group in China and is renowned for preserving its traditional culture most completely. Known as the “Hometown of Huayao Dai in China,” Xinping hosts the Huajie Festival (花街节) from the 3rd to the 5th day of the first lunar month. This highly ceremonial and historically rich festival is a signature celebration of the Huayao Dai.
Located between the Ailao Mountains (哀牢山) and the eastern Yunnan plateau, Eshan was the first Yi Autonomous County (彝族自治县) in China and the first ethnic autonomous county in Yunnan. Apu Dumu (阿普笃慕) is revered as the ancestral figure of the Yi people, with six sons who later became the founders of six major ancient Yi tribes, spreading across Yunnan, Sichuan, Guizhou, and Guangxi. The Flower Drum Dance (花鼓舞), called “Zhebo Bi” (者波必) in the Yi language, is a beloved folk performance combining singing, dancing, and music—one of the most iconic dance forms of the Yi people.
Yuanjiang is home to nine branches of the Hani ethnic group: Nuobi (糯比), Nuomei (糯美), Duota (堕塔), Suobi (梭比), Budu (布都/阿梭), Biyue (碧约), Baihong (白宏/布孔), Kaduo (卡堕), and Ximoluo (西摩洛). These subgroups mostly reside in the Nanxi area of Yuanjiang, including Nanuo (那诺), Yangjie (羊街), Mili (咪哩), and Yinyuan (因远), with smaller populations in Lijiang and Honghe subdistricts. Despite close proximity, each maintains distinct traditions.
The Hani Terraced Fields in Yuanjiang are mainly found in Yangjie and Nanuo, with the Nanuo terraces being the most renowned. These are masterpieces of Hani agricultural engineering and exemplify ancient Yunnan farming civilization. Their terrace culture features rich traditions, including songs of labor, ritual, love, and folk customs, as well as ancient and bold dances—among which the Palm Fan Dance (棕扇舞) stands out.
As the only Mongolian township in Yunnan, Xingmeng has preserved vibrant traditions such as the Naadam Festival (那达慕), Luban Festival (鲁班节), and Ancestor Remembrance Festival (忆祖节). During harvest seasons, residents hold grand Naadam gatherings to celebrate.
As of 2022, Yuxi City (玉溪市) had 34 tourist attractions rated A-level or above at the national level.
Located under Tiger Cliff (虎跳崖) on White Tiger Mountain (白虎山), in Dapingzhang Village, Yaonan Village Committee, Jiasha Town (戛洒镇), about 108 km from Xinping County Seat and 36 km from Jiasha Township.
Located 20 km from Chengjiang County and 70 km from Kunming, on the west shore of Fuxian Lake (抚仙湖).
Also known as Gushan Island (孤山岛), located slightly west in Fuxian Lake (抚仙湖), about 900 meters from shore, covering an area of 82 mu with 85% greenery coverage.
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