Lu Chengfen – Inheritor of Bailuo Ethnic Costume-making Skill in Malipo, Wenshan 

Lu Chengfen (陆成芬), female, Yi ethnic group (彝族), born in 1966, is from Xinzai Village (新寨村), Xinzai Township (新寨乡), Malipo County (麻栗坡县), Wenshan Prefecture (文山州). At the age of 12, she began learning the Yi ethnic group (彝族) traditional craft of making clothing from her mother, which includes spinning, weaving, embroidery, and wax-dyeing, specifically for the Yi Bai Luo (白倮) subgroup. She mastered the craft by the age of 17 and started teaching at the age of 30.

Inheritance Methods

Family Inheritance

Lu Chengfen (陆成芬) learned the Yi Bai Luo (白倮) clothing-making skills from her mother in a family environment deeply immersed in craft traditions. This family-based approach allowed her to gradually master the craft through constant exposure and guidance.

Master-Apprentice Transmission

After mastering the skills, Lu Chengfen (陆成芬) began teaching apprentices, passing on the techniques to others. She has trained a group of young successors who continue to practice and preserve the tradition.

Characteristics of the Craft

Yi Bai Luo (白倮) clothing-making is a complex process that involves numerous steps, including cotton planting, cotton picking, spinning, boiling, washing, dyeing, re-boiling, re-washing, thread pulling, spooling, weaving on a loom, wax-dyeing patterns, and sewing the garments. All of these steps are done by hand. Creating a full set of clothing usually takes about a year.

Cultural Value

Yi Bai Luo (白倮) clothing is an important part of Yi (彝族) traditional culture, with unique artistic value and historical significance. The clothing is primarily white, with attention to the coordination of lines and patterns, showcasing the aesthetic concepts and cultural significance of the Yi Bai Luo (白倮) people.

Through her efforts in inheritance and innovation, Lu Chengfen (陆成芬) has made significant contributions to the protection and development of Yi Bai Luo (白倮) clothing-making techniques.

Patterns in Yi Bai Luo Clothing

Yi Bai Luo (白倮) clothing patterns are rich and diverse, carrying deep cultural meanings and unique artistic value. Below are some common patterns and their characteristics:

Slanted Character Flower Pattern

The slanted character flower pattern is made using the “—” character as the basic unit to form a flower-like design. This pattern has a strict directional alignment, with all “—” characters (of the same color) kept parallel and aligned with the warp or weft of the fabric. The structure is precise, with flowing lines and a geometric beauty.

Fabric-Cut Pattern

The fabric-cut pattern involves cutting the fabric into various shapes and then embroidering around the edges with thread. This pattern often gives a strong sense of three-dimensionality and layering, commonly used to decorate the edges of clothing.

Thread-Wrapped Pattern

The thread-wrapped pattern involves wrapping colorful threads into various shapes and then stitching them onto the base fabric with another thread. This pattern is rich in color and delicate in detail, often used to decorate the finer aspects of clothing.

Natural Element Patterns

The patterns on Yi Bai Luo (白倮) clothing are often inspired by nature, such as pumpkin flowers, red rice flowers, buckwheat flowers, buckwheat seeds, and milk flowers. These patterns are not only beautiful but also reflect the Bai Luo people’s reverence and worship of nature.

Totem Patterns

Yi Bai Luo (白倮) clothing also features many totemic patterns, such as dragon motifs, dragon teeth, silver bubbles, and bells. These patterns carry a mystical aura, representing the Bai Luo people’s totem beliefs and respect for their ancestors.

Geometric Patterns

Geometric patterns are common decorative elements in Yi Bai Luo (白倮) clothing, including circles, triangles, squares, and diamonds. These patterns are simple and elegant, with rhythmic and musical qualities, often used across various parts of the clothing.

Floral and Animal Patterns

Floral and animal patterns are significant components of Yi Bai Luo (白倮) clothing, with common motifs like camellias, horse cherry blossoms, lotuses, chrysanthemums, as well as butterflies, fish, and insects. These patterns are vivid and colorful, demonstrating the Bai Luo people’s love for the beauty of nature.

Natural Scene Patterns

Natural scene patterns, such as the sun, moon, stars, clouds, and waves, are also frequently found on Yi Bai Luo (白倮) clothing. These patterns abstractly express the Bai Luo people’s love and yearning for the natural world.

These patterns not only decorate Yi Bai Luo (白倮) clothing but also carry rich cultural meanings and historical information, making them an essential part of Yi Bai Luo (白倮) culture.