Puer Tea Manufacturing Craft Protection in Ning’er County, Pu’er City

Overview:
普洱市宁洱县普洱茶制作技艺（贡茶制作技艺） Puer Tea Manufacturing Craft Protection in Ning’er County, Pu’er City
Pu’er tea production techniques, also known as tribute tea production techniques, are a local traditional craft in Ning’er Hani and Yi Autonomous County, Yunnan Province. This technique is one of China’s national intangible cultural heritages. The traditional processing techniques for Yunnan Pu’er tea originated in the tenth year of the Qing Dynasty’s Yongzheng period (1732). The method of “steaming and pressing into shape” is a time-honored technique passed down through generations. The production process is generally divided into four main stages: “offering rituals to the tea god, selecting raw materials, fixing and sun-drying, and steaming and pressing into shape.” Pu’er tea, which undergoes natural fermentation, can be stored for long periods under well-ventilated, dry, and odor-free conditions. The longer it is stored, the better the taste and value, making it a collectible “drinkable antique.”

On June 7, 2008, the Pu’er tea production technique (tribute tea production technique) was included in the second batch of the national intangible cultural heritage list, approved by the State Council of the People’s Republic of China, with project number VIII-151.

Historical Origins: The Pu’er tea production technique, also known as tribute tea production, is the result of accumulated experience by local tea artisans over thousands of years. The traditional Pu’er tea production process dates back to the Shang and Zhou dynasties, when early tea cultivators in Yunnan presented tea to King Wu of Zhou, although it was not yet named Pu’er tea.

During the Three Kingdoms period, the “Wu Hou遗种” opened the history of Pu’er tea on the 23rd day of the seventh lunar month over 1,700 years ago. By the Tang Dynasty, Pu’er tea was already being sold in inland China and Tibet.

In the Song Dynasty, Pu’er tea held an important position in the “tea-horse trade.” During the Yuan Dynasty, a place called “Buri Bu” later became known as “Pu’er” (with “ear” written without three dots at that time), marking the first appearance of the term Pu’er.

During the Ming Dynasty, Pu’er tea was widely distributed. The term “Pu’er tea” first appeared in Ming Dynasty scholar Xie Zhao’s “Dian Lue”: “Used by both scholars and commoners, it is all Pu’er tea, steamed and pressed into shape.” By this time, the technique of pressing tea into shape was already in use.

From historical records, it is clear that Pu’er tea began to be offered to the imperial court during the Yongzheng period of the Qing Dynasty. The 12th year of Yongzheng (1734) mentions in the “Prohibition of Buying Official Tea Notification” that tribute tea was procured annually and delivered to the imperial court from Simao Prefecture. During this time, the six famous tea mountains in Yunnan reached their peak, with “several tens of thousands of people making tea in the mountains” as recorded in “Tan Cui Dian Hai Yu Heng Zhi.” Pu’er tea was enjoyed by the court aristocracy and literati, with a custom of “drinking Longjing tea in summer and Pu’er tea in winter.”

In the 13th year of the Guangxu period (1908), Pu’er tea being sent to Beijing was robbed near Kunming, leading the Yunnan provincial government to cease the tribute of Pu’er tea, marking the end of the tribute tea era. Subsequently, in the context of “saving the country through industry,” private businesses and modern tea factories were established. Some merchants recognized Pu’er tea as a vital border industry and economic pillar.

Craft Characteristics: The Pu’er tea production technique (tribute tea production technique) is closely tied to local customs. Before picking tea leaves, a ritual must be performed to honor the tea god. After the ritual, production begins, with tea makers strictly selecting picking sites and times according to certain standards and technical requirements, using hand-picking methods. After preparing the raw materials, the next step is to fix and sun-dry the leaves into sun-dried green tea. The final steps involve steaming, pressing, shaping, drying, and packaging the tea into various finished products.

Craft Process: Pu’er tea is mainly produced in Ning’er Hani and Yi Autonomous County and Menghai County. The traditional production process includes several key steps, illustrated as follows:

1. Picking: Tribute tea picking has strict requirements. According to “Pu’er History and Chronicles,” the picking process must follow the “Five Selections and Eight Avoidances.” The “Five Selections” are: selecting the right day (before the Grain Rain festival), selecting the right time (sunny day, before sunrise), selecting the right tea mountain (tea fields with good growth), and selecting the right tea leaves and branches. The “Eight Avoidances” include avoiding leaves without buds, large leaves, small leaves, thin buds, curved buds, pale color, insect-damaged leaves, and purple-colored leaves.
2. Fixing and Sun-Drying: “Fixing” is a key and unique process in tribute tea production. The procedure involves heating the leaves in a hot wok while stirring and spreading them to ensure even heating and partial moisture loss. The temperature needs to be moderate: too low, and the astringency will not be removed; too high, and the active enzymes in the tea leaves will be destroyed, affecting fermentation and preserving tea polyphenols. Enzyme activity plays a crucial role in the tea’s taste and health benefits.”Rolling” is also crucial for the quality of the tea. The process involves hand-rolling the fixed tea leaves to shape them into strips, and the skill of the tea maker affects the final quality of the tea.
3. Steaming and Pressing: By the Song Dynasty, tea had already become an important commodity in market trade. During the Yuan Dynasty, the processing technology was simple, and the tea was mostly sun-dried green tea. Due to the inconvenience of transporting loose tea and the rugged terrain in Yunnan, tea was steamed and pressed into cake shapes for easier transport. This method of steaming and pressing into cakes represents a significant advancement in the production process and reflects the wisdom of the Chinese people.

Heritage and Preservation: The unique traditional production techniques of Pu’er tribute tea, along with its deep historical and cultural significance, are an important part of Chinese tea culture. The production process serves as a foundation for modern Pu’er tea development. Pu’er tea has significant research value in history, ethnology, folklore, and technology, and its potential for development is considerable in the context of contemporary trends toward natural and healthy consumption.

Inheritance Status: The production process of Pu’er tea is a relatively fixed procedure, divided into “offering rituals to the tea god, selecting raw materials, fixing and sun-drying, and steaming and pressing into shape.” However, the entire process, from selecting tea tree varieties to managing tea gardens and various production stages, involves intricate and detailed techniques. The traditional methods are labor-intensive and time-consuming compared to modern techniques. Continuing to promote and develop this ancient craft is a significant challenge.

Notable Figures: Li Xingchang, a Yi ethnic group member from Ning’er Hani and Yi Autonomous County, Pu’er City, is a representative inheritor of the national intangible cultural heritage project of Pu’er tea production techniques. As the eighth-generation successor of his family, Li Xingchang has dedicated decades to studying and promoting traditional Pu’er tea production techniques. Since 2012, he has established skill master studios and Pu’er tea production training bases to teach traditional handcraft techniques to the public, helping more people understand and appreciate Pu’er tea.

Protection Measures: On November 12, 2019, the “List of National Intangible Cultural Heritage Representative Project Protection Units” was published, and the Ning’er Hani and Yi Autonomous County Cultural Center was recognized as a protection unit for the “Pu’er Tea Production Technique (Tribute Tea Production Technique)” project. On October 31, 2023, the Cultural Center was assessed and approved as a protection unit for this project.

Social Impact:

• Important Exhibitions: On January 12, 2012, the Pu’er tribute tea production technique participated in the National Intangible Cultural Heritage Exhibition. In November 2019, the interactive and living displays of Pu’er tea tribute production were featured in the second China International Import Expo’s Yunnan Provincial Intangible Cultural Heritage showcase.