Chinese Name: 北斋公房
English Name: Beizhai Gongfang Ancient Tea Horse Caravan in GaoliGongshan Mountain, Baoshan

Beizhai Gongfang(北斋公房， Public House in the North) , located in Gaoligong Mountain（高黎贡山）, is the only route of the Silk Road on land（陆上丝绸之路） in ancient southern China. There were three routes from Baoshan(保山) to Tengchong （腾冲）on the Silk Road in ancient southwest China, crossing Nu River （怒江）from Baoshan, over the Gaoligong Mountain-Ma Mian Guang (in some books, it is called Ma Hui Guang, which means that this place is too dangerous for horses to cross, but now it is generally known as Ma Mian Guang) – Beizhai Gongfang- Qiaotou(bridge), which is the oldest recognized route.

Architectural History

Beizhai Gongfang should be initially built at the time of Nanzhao Kingdom (a local regime in ancient China) of Tang Dynasty. During this period, it was destroyed and repaired several times. In the long river of history, there were wars and fires, but the wall base and stone stairs of the house are still faintly visible. From the present ruins, we can imagine that the bustling scene of the prosperous ancient business travel.

Surrounding Landscapes

Along the river from Huang Jia Village(黄家寨) of Jie Tou Township（界头乡） (a local village), we will see Chao Yang Dian (朝阳殿，a hall face the sun), During the Anti-Japanese War in western Yunnan(滇西), the government of Anti-Japanese in Tengchong was established here for three times. It takes 5 and half hour to go to Zhai Gong fang. Because there’s another zhai Gong Fang in the south, for convenience, it’s called Beizhai Gongfang, and in the south is called Nanzhai GongFang(Public House in the south).

Up from Beizhai Gongfang, as the increase of altitude, a large area of bamboo forest appeared, and we can pass the saddle back if go further on. On the saddle back, the Nu River(怒江) can be seen to the East, and a wide expanse of flat land -Jietouba(界头坝) can be seen to the West.
Translated by Ma Yunru/马云茹

Chinese Name:南斋公房茶马古道
English Name: Nanzhai Gongfang Ancient Tea Horse Caravan in Gaoligong Mountain, Baoshan

Location and Name Origin: Nanzhai Gongfang is located in Gaoligong Mountain at an elevation of 3,150 meters. The name originated from a devout Buddhist volunteer who settled here to provide food and lodging for travelers. Historically, Nanzhai Gongfang, Beishai Gongfang, and the Hongmushu Path were three important ancient routes of the Southern Silk Road connecting Baoshan and Tengchong. These paths were strategically significant due to their treacherous terrain.

Historical Significance:

• Strategic Importance: The ancient routes, including Nanzhai Gongfang, were crucial for military and trade purposes. Over seventy years ago, during the Second Sino-Japanese War, the 198th Division of the 54th Army of the 20th Group Army fought fiercely against Japanese forces on these paths. The battles along these routes, including the Battle of Datangzi, Battle of Nanzhai Gongfang, Battle of Dajian Mountain, and Battle of Linjia Shop, were intense and significant, with many soldiers and enemies losing their lives.
• Trekking Route: Today, Nanzhai Gongfang is known for its well-established and relatively safe trekking route across Gaoligong Mountain. It is a popular choice for hikers due to its moderate difficulty compared to Beishai Gongfang.

Cultural Heritage of Tengchong:

• Quishi Bronze Artifact: In January 1989, Zhang Daoyi, a farmer from Zhangjia Village in Tengchong, discovered a bronze altar while digging. This artifact, identified as a Grade One Cultural Relic, represents typical Spring and Autumn and Warring States period bronze culture.
• Jiangju Village: Jiangju Village is known for its historical printing workshop, Doyu Tang Book House, which printed many books during the Ming and Qing dynasties. Only one set of woodblock printing plates remains. The village also features a unique house built entirely on a stone and streets paved with blue stone slabs.
• Historical Significance of Jiangju: Although now somewhat desolate, Jiangju was once a bustling post station on the Silk Road. It was a critical supply and rest stop for muleteers traveling across Gaoligong Mountain. The area had numerous shops and guesthouses, with up to ten horse shops at its peak. Horses and muleteers frequently passed through, creating a lively atmosphere with the sound of bells and songs echoing through the forest.

Modern Experience:

• Ancient Stone Steps: The ancient stone steps, covered with leaves and moss, still show the deep footprints left by muleteers. Linjia Shops along the route were traditional resting places for travelers.
• Challenging Conditions: At 3,150 meters, the altitude presents challenging conditions, including thin air and altitude sickness. Historically, this high elevation, combined with the arduous journey, made it a place where many travelers perished.

Legacy: Nanzhai Gongfang remains a testament to its historical and strategic importance. The area still features remnants of World War II trenches and fortifications, preserving the memory of the fierce battles fought here.

History of Jinri Building

Jinri Building (近日楼), originally known as “Lizhengmen” (丽正门), was constructed during the Ming Dynasty. It was an impressive and majestic structure, often referred to by the locals of old Kunming as the “high-rise close to the sun.” Situated along the north-south axis of the old city of Kunming, it was considered the southern gate of the city, alongside landmarks like the Jinma Biji Square (金马碧鸡坊) and the East and West Pagodas (东西寺塔). These locations have long served as symbols of Kunming and points of pride. The building was also known as the “Lizheng Gate” (丽正门).

The Evolution of Jinri Building

During the Qing Dynasty, after the governor of Yunnan and Guizhou, Fan Chengxun (范承勋), arrived in Kunming, he renamed the Lizheng Gate to “Jinri Gate” (近日门). The structure was referred to as the Jinri Building. In both the Ming and Qing Dynasties, the area around Jinri Building was the main commercial center of Kunming, bustling with trade and goods. However, in the 1950s, Jinri Building was demolished.

The Naming of Jinri Building

The origin of the name “Jinri” (近日), meaning “close to the sun,” is connected to the architectural and cultural significance of the building. In 1381, during the 14th year of the Hongwu Era (洪武), Zhu Yuanzhang (朱元璋) established a political administration office in Yunnan, with Mu Ying (沐英) appointed as the governor. The following year, Mu Ying oversaw the construction of Kunming’s city walls, which were built with large blue bricks. Six gates were constructed, and the southern gate was originally named “Chongzheng Gate” (崇正门), with its city tower known as “Xiangming Tower” (向明楼). This naming was intended to symbolize respect for the Ming Dynasty, but some viewed it as too honoring of the Ming, which conflicted with Qing Dynasty traditions.

During the Kangxi era of the Qing Dynasty, Fan Chengxun, the governor of Yunnan and Guizhou, felt that the name “Chongzheng Gate” was outdated and inappropriate. However, he found it difficult to decide on a new name. Observing the structure, with its towering and majestic appearance, it was clear that this was no ordinary building. Local people remarked that standing at the top of the tower felt like being “close to the sun.” This inspired the locals to suggest renaming the structure to “Jinri Building” (近日楼), which quickly became widely accepted.

Reconstruction in the Modern Era

In the 1950s, the original Jinri Building was demolished to make way for the construction of Dongfeng Road (东风路), which crosses the city center of Kunming. In 2002, in an effort to preserve the city’s historical architecture and promote tourism, the Kunming government decided to rebuild Jinri Building in a new location between the East and West Pagodas. This reconstruction aimed to restore the “Old Kunming” (老昆明) style and create a pedestrian street. The new Jinri Building officially opened on April 20, 2002.

Since the opening of the pedestrian street, thousands of people have visited daily, with even larger crowds on holidays. The street has become a popular destination for both locals and visitors, including overseas Chinese and foreign tourists from all over the world.

Cultural Significance and Modern Displays

One of the highlights of the pedestrian street is a collection of bronze sculptures titled “Century-old Kunming Market Life,” which consists of five pieces: “Horse Caravan,” “Chess Players,” “Night Watchman,” “Bowl Repairer,” and “Female Merchant.” These sculptures vividly recreate the everyday life and atmosphere of Old Kunming during the late Qing Dynasty and the Republic of China era. They capture the local customs and lively market scenes, and have become an iconic feature of the area.

Inside Jinri Building, visitors can explore displays showcasing photographs taken by a French photographer during the late Qing and early Republican periods. These photographs provide a glimpse into Kunming’s streets, markets, and official activities from over a century ago. Visitors can also enjoy a collection of illustrated murals depicting the customs and lifestyle of Old Kunming, with many students and tourists taking notes as they admire the artworks.

New Location and Surrounding Area

The current Jinri Building is located nearly 900 meters south of its original site. The previous locations of Zhonglaifang (忠爱坊), Jinma Square (金马坊), and Biji Square (碧鸡坊) are now situated to the north of the building. The original site of Jinri Building was in the heart of South Ping Street (南屏步行街), one of the most vibrant and unique areas of Kunming.

The Locking of the Dragon Well

Before the reconstruction of Jinri Building, a small old house once stood between the East and West Pagodas in Kunming’s city center. This house contained an ancient well, which local legends referred to as the “Lock Dragon Well” (锁龙井), where it was believed that a dragon was trapped. According to local folklore, the East and West Pagodas were built to keep the dragon in place, and the well allowed it to vent its frustration. In 2002, when Jinri Building was rebuilt at this site, the well and old house were preserved in their original form, adding an extra layer of mystery to the area. It was a rare example of how such curious legends could be maintained while developing the area.

Transportation

To visit Jinri Building, visitors can take bus routes 4, 52, or 5 in Kunming, and ride until the final stop, which will take them directly to the entrance of the park.

Chinese Name: 宁洱县茶庵塘段茶马古道
English Name: Chaantang Ancient Tea Horse Caravan Relics in Ninger County, Puer

The Pu’er Tea Horse Road, originating from the administrative center of Pu’er (now Ning’er County), was a crucial ancient transportation route primarily used for the trade of Pu’er tea, connecting both domestic and international markets. In 2013, it was designated as a National Key Cultural Relic Protection Unit by the State Council. This road served as a vital corridor for economic and cultural exchanges among ethnic groups in southwest China and played a significant role in promoting unity among border ethnicities and consolidating national cohesion.

Tea An Tang Segment

Among the various sections of the Tea Horse Road, the Tea An Tang segment is one of the best-preserved parts of the official horse road from Ning’er to Kunming. Constructed during the Qing Dynasty between the 17th year of the Jiaqing reign and the 3rd year of the Daoguang reign (1812–1824), Tea An Tang was historically a relay station on the ancient route from Pu’er to Kunming. It featured facilities such as an official reception hall, a reception courtyard, tea houses, temples, and horse stables (with the reception hall and courtyard having been restored). The name “Tea An” reflects its importance as a checkpoint during the Yuan and Ming dynasties. Due to its steep slopes and dangerous peaks, it was described as a path only passable by birds, hence the nickname “Tea An Bird Path.”

Preservation and Experience

This section of the Tea Horse Road is well-preserved, with vegetation intact and the rocks on the path bearing numerous deep hoof prints from long-term mule and horse traffic. Walking along this ancient path evokes the feeling of “narrow paths full of sorrowful returns, dangerous peaks evoking fear.” The segment spans approximately 12 kilometers, extending from Tea An Tang to the north, passing through Mohei Banchang, Laojiezi, and Sitang Temple, and connecting to the Peacock Screen section.

Cha’antang section of the Ancient Tea-Horse Road

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Chinese Name:沙溪大猫驿客栈
English Name: Cato’s Inn in Shaxi Old Town, Dali

The origins of the ‘Tea and Horse Road’

The story of the Tea and Horse Road started in the 11th century in the central plains of China, when the borders of the Song empire (960-1279) were threatened by barbarian invasions. Back in those days, good quality horses were crucial to warfare and control over territory. The Song emperors were compelled to deal with Tibetan tribes of Amdo (current Qinghai 青海 province) who supplied the Chinese with good quality horses.

This is how, motivated by warfare, the tea for horse trade started. All the Tibetan horses and all the tea in China, however, did not save the Song dynasty against the Mongol who swept through Asia.

In China, the Mongol founded the Yuan dynasty (1271-1368) and anchored Yunnan into the Chinese imperial realm.

The Tea and Horse Road (茶马古道) is a “cultural concept developed by academics in the 1990s” (Huang Yinwu Reading Time in Shaxi: 2011). In Yunnan, trade routes linking the sites of tea production (Xishuangbanna (西双版纳) – where the famous Pu’er tea 普洱茶 originates) to Tibet (which had become the first importer of Chinese tea) and other kingdoms in Southeast Asia pre-date the Mongol invasions and the incorporation of the province into the Chinese Empire.

With the Ming (1368 – 1644) dynasty, hundred of thousands of Han migrants ventured and settled in Yunnan. During the last year of the reign of the first Ming emperor Hongwu 洪武, in 1398, the tea for horse trade is reported in Yongning 永宁, north of Lijiang on the Yunnan-Sichuan border where offices for the exchange of tea and horses (茶马司) were set up.

Tea trade would not have existed without the horse caravans. This network of trade routes that we know as Tea and Horse Road (茶马古道) connected people from different ethnic groups, has contributed to the spreading of ideas and helped shape a new economic landscape in Yunnan during the Ming and Qing era.

About the list below

All towns and villages I mentioned in this list benefited somehow from the Tea Horse trade route. They thrived until the early 1950s when the Communist forbade trade. During the Mao era, these villages declined and lost their importance as trading centre. In the 1990s, with the development of foreign and domestic tourism some have become must-see travel destinations, others remain impoverished villages.

Horse caravans carried tea leaves produced near Lushi (鲁史), a village nested in the Wuliang Mountain (无量山), to Xiaguan (the city on the south shores of the Erhai Lake 洱海 near the ancient town of Dali 大理) where they were transformed into Tuo Tea (沱茶), a Pu’er-like dome-shaped of post-fermented tea.

Two factors contributes to making Lushi a well-preserved village on the old Tea and Horse Road. Located in a remote and impoverished mountainous region of Yunnan, most locals do not have the financial means to knock down their old house and rebuild with contemporary construction materials. This means they do not have the money to maintain and preserve the wood and adobe houses which line the slab-stones streets polished by the passages of horse caravans.

When I visited in April 2014, a few buildings on the main streets and elsewhere had been ‘renovated’ (翻新) and a museum dedicated to the place of Lushi on the Tea and Horse Road was under construction. In spite of these transformations, it felt to me that time stopped and that the village is stuck in the 1960s (without the political campaigns of that era).

I mentioned the ancient town of Weishan 巍山 several times in this blog and I encourage anyone who is traveling in Dali 大理 to go and visit this little town. The historical street that runs from the Gongchen tower gate (拱辰楼) to the Xinggong Tower (星拱楼) had not been entangled with China’s contemporaneity.

Featuring Ming – Qing era courtyards and adobe houses slowly crumbling away, Weishan 巍山 is a live architectural museum, a window on China’s past and into the daily life of locals. Last time I visited, in May 2014, Weishan was a sprawling town which historical core had not succumbed to mass-tourism (yet). However, it seemed that a few stores had started selling trinkets (the same we find anywhere in travel destinations in China).

The renovation of the Dengjue temple (等觉寺), which features ivory-white twin pagodas, was complete and workers were still busy around the Confucius temple (文庙). A few plastic billboards hiding a construction site were selling commercial space into a small open-air mall.

The days of the “Weishan Untouched by time” may soon be over. Yet, this town remains a destination of choice if you want to escape the crowds of Dali and Lijiang.

Located between Weishan and Xiaguan, Donglianhua (东莲花), is a Muslim (or Hui 回 in Chinese). Here, the Tea Horse trade route takes its multi-ethnic dimension.

In Yunnan, different ethnic groups were involved at different levels of the tea trade. In Xishuangbanna, uphill tribes like the Hani were cultivating tea bushes. They sold the tea leaves to lowland Dai middle-men who sold them to Han merchants. The Han transformed the tea into bricks in the town of Pu’er (普洱).

Hui Muslims and Tibetans were the two dominant ethnic groups involved in the transportation of the tea bricks and other goods on the trade route (although there was a fair amount of Han – Chinese).

Donglianhua (东莲花) is known as the ‘village of the caravan leaders’. A handful of local families benefited from the trade and built opulent courtyard mansions and one of them hosts a Tea and Horse Road Museum worth seeing after a visit to the Chinese-style mosque and a stroll in the streets lined with adobe buildings.

In Yunnanyi (云南驿), I was looking to visit the ancient trading post on the Tea and Horse Road. When I arrived in this sleepy off-the-beaten path village east of Dali (大理), I discovered a multi-layered history.

Yunnanyi was situated on the east – west corridor of the Tea and Horse trade routes network of trade routes. It linked Lushi (鲁史), Weishan (巍山) and south Yunnan to Kunming (昆明) where tea bricks were heading north to the emperor court in Beijing.

I had loosely talked about the Native Chieftainship System (土司制度) established by the Mongol rulers of the Yuan dynasty to gain indirect control over the southwest ethnic borderland. With this system, used by the following Ming and Qing dynasties, ethnic rulers were awarded military and civilian titles by the imperial court. In return, they helped protect the Chinese empire against invasions from the south and regularly paid tribute to the emperor in Beijing. The best qualities of Pu’er were thus sent to the capital from the remote corners of Xishuangbanna and Yunnanyi was on this imperial route.

Even after horse caravans stopped in the 1950s under the new Communist rule, Yunnanyi briefly retained its importance in this part of the world. Indeed, during WWII, Yunnanyi was an important stop on the Burma Road (滇缅公路) which helped convey much needed supplies to Chinese forces in their counter-attack against Japan. When the road was closed in 1942, a landing strip, the US forces built a landing strip just south of the village and supplies reached Yunnan by air from British India.

There are two small museums in Yunnanyi. One dedicated to the Tea and Horse Road is located inside and the other to the Burma Road and the Hump.

I already wrote a post which focused on Xizhou 喜州 and the beautiful Bai architecture of its vast courtyards. We owe these courtyards to a dozen of local families who were involved and benefited from the trade fuelled by the Tea and Horse Road.

According to local history there were three groups of Xizhou families who where called the ‘Xizhou Entrepreneurial Band’ (喜州商帮) : the ‘four great families’ (四大家), ‘eight middle families’ (八中家) and ‘twelve small families’ (十二小家).

During the heyday of the Tea and Horse Road from the Ming dynasty to the Republican Era, these families dealt primarily in tea. They bought tea leaves from the Shunning area (顺宁) i.e. Lushi 鲁史，which were processed into Tuocha (沱茶) in Xiaguan 下关. High-quality tea was transported to Chengdu in Sichuan and lower-grade tea was called ‘barbarians tea bricks’ (蛮庄饼子) which were transported to Lijiang 丽江, Weixi 维西, Deqin 德钦 (formerly called Atunze ) and Tibet.

Raw silk bought from Sichuan was brought back along the trade routes, transformed in the region, sold in Yunnan and exported to Burma and India. In Burma and India, the silk was sold for money or exchange for cotton which was brought back for the Yunnan market.

Beside tea and raw silk, the ‘Xizhou Entrepreneurial Band’ also dealt in satin, musk, leather, gold, silver, medicinal herbs and foreign textiles (let’s not forget that, at some point in history, British and French were at the end of these trade routes in India and Indochina).

Xizhou families built themselves a mutli-national import-export industry and the courtyard houses they left behind are their legacies. Today, some of Xizhou courtyard are either home to several local households, transformed into museums (free or not) and one was carefully renovated and transformed into a boutique-hotel : the Linden Center.

In Yangbi 漾濞, a sprawling small town just 45 minutes by bus west of Xiaguan 下关, you will have to look for Renmin Street (仁民街), literally the ‘Benevolent People’ street to find traces of the Tea and Horse Road.

This historical street nestled on the banks of the Yangbi River (漾濞江) has not recovered from the demise of the tea horse trade in the region. There was not much to see except a few impressive courtyard gates and the cobble-stone street. At the end of Renmin Street, I found Yangbi’s most prominent vestige of the old Tea and Horse Road : the Yunlong suspended bridge (云龙吊桥), built during the Ming dynasty.

It reminded me of Tea and Horse Road Museum in Yunnanyi (云南驿) where I saw an altar dedicated to the gods of roads (路神), mountains (山神) and bridges (桥神). I had travelled to several ancient trading post on the Tea Horse Road and I had forgotten that the trails linking these places is now lost somewhere in the countryside, far from the highways and roads that run through Yunnan.

This bridge, that Xu Xiake 徐霞客 the famous Ming-era explorer who reached Mount Qianshi 千狮山 near Shaxi 沙溪, allowed caravans to head west towards Baoshan 保山, Heshun 和顺 and north into Shaxi 沙溪, Jianchuan 剑川, Lijiang 丽江.

Although the bridge is worth seeing, you’ll have to be a Tea & Horse road nerd to come to Yangbi.

From the Dali – Xiaguan, there were two roads going up north : one along the Erhai Lake (洱海) via Xizhou 喜州 － Jianchuan 剑川 to Lijiang 丽江, the other was passing through Yangbi 漾濞 and entered the Shaxi 沙溪 valley.

The villages in the valley had always benefited from the fertile land and before the different goods transported along the Tea and Horse Road reach Shaxi, salt was the main products carried by the horse caravans.

Therefore, the main village of Shaxi valley, Sideng, was a striving commercial centre before tea, silks, and medicinal herbs reached the market square in front of the old theatre (寺登古戏台) which is now the region’s most iconic building. Most tourists do not realise that the Xingjiao temple (兴教寺), was built in front of the theatre so that the Buddhas could enjoy the performances in the same time as the locals and muleteers who stopped in the village for the night and stayed at in the Ouyang courtyard.

Here are two signs of the influence of the Tea and Horse Road in Shaxi. First, the name of two lanes in the historical core were named North and South ‘Guzong’ (古宗) which refers to the Tibetans in Bai language. The second influence comes from the spread of Confucianism : the slab-stones were laid for people of high social position while commoners could only walk on the two sides of the streets paved with cobbles.

Before 2003 when the Shaxi Rehabilitation Project began, the village, its theater and gates were crumbling away. The restoration project gave the region a new life oriented towards tourism.

Everyone has hear or visited the UNESCO-listed ancient town of Lijiang 丽江. It seems that it’s now a consensus among travellers (foreign and domestic) that the development of ‘mass-tourism with Chinese characteristics’ has spoiled the laid-back atmosphere that existed 10 – 15 years ago.

Peter Goullart, a Russian merchant born during the last quarter of the 19th century and who lived in Lijiang during the late 1920s – early 1930s gives vivid descriptions of the horse caravans that reached the town and the goods they brought.

“Tibetan caravans were pouring in the goods from Calcutta, both for local consumption and for re-export to Kunming, at a prodigious rate. Best makes of British and American cigarettes were available and all kinds of textiles. Even new Singer sewing machines could be bought. Of course, the prices were very high as the caravan is the most expensive mode of transport in the world (…)

Tibean boots and saddle-bags were made by the thousand; in fact, the really fine Tibetan boots were not produced in Tibet but exported there from Lijiang (…) By its huge trade through Tibet (…) Lijiang became very prosperous and new building began to spring up overnight everywhere”

Baoshan Stone Town is also an important town of the Ancient Tea Horse Caravan.

In 2001, when I reached Zhongdian on a cold April day. The old town was a cluster of decaying Tibetan houses that was eventually levelled down to give way to the a new Lijiang-looking ‘old’ town for tourists who came to look for Shangri-la, the new name of Zhongdian, in reference to the ‘heaven on earth’ in James Hilton novel … and also to boost tourism.

Most of the new ancient town was destroyed by a fire in January 2013, but one of the main attraction of Zhongdian is the monastery of Songzanlin (松赞林) or Ganden Sumtselin.

Back in the heydays of the Tea and Horse Road, large monasteries like Sumtselin also functioned as warehouses and logistic centers for tea and other goods traded on the Tea Horse Road. Tibetan monasteries were thus more than just monasteries and had a crucial role in the tea trade. Let’s forget about this romantic ideas of smiling monks in saffron robes chanting sutras.

High-ranking lamas and Tibetan aristocracy controlled the monopoly on tea for the entire Tibetan territory. Tibetan monasteries needed huge quantities of tea because ritual tea was offered to images and statues of Buddha four times a day. Monasteries also had to give tea to all monks after the daily meditation ceremony.

Dubbed the ‘Little Potala’, this Tibetan Monastery is one of the largest in southwest China. Your travel guide may tell you that it was bombed by the People’s Army of Liberation when Communists had set off to ‘liberate’, or ‘invade’, the Himalayan Kingdom in 1951. What we see now is a re-built monastery.

The ancient village of Heshun 和顺 near the town of Tengchong 腾冲 is more often associated with the Jade Road than the Tea and Horse Raod. However, frequent unrest on the Sino-Tibetan border, specially in the Kham 康 area (the Kham 康 is a macro-region including western Sichuan, northern Yunnan and eastern Tibet) and the Panthay Rebellion from 1856 to 1873 during which a Muslim Sultanate with Dali as capital was established, interrupted the trade routes in central and northern Yunnan.

Since Tibet was the first importer of tea, alternative routes emerged. In this corner of west Yunnan, trade routes linked Heshun to Yangon in Burma where tea was loaded on boat to Calcutta and then transported across the Himalayas. It shows how much Tibetans were addicted to tea.

Heshun 和顺 is the only place in this list where visitors have to pay a 80 RMB entrance fee to visit. Even though it’s pretty remote and far from the backpacker’s trail of Dali – Lijiang – Zhongdian, the town can be jam-packed with domestic tourists.

Three hours by bus west of the Dali – Xiaguan area, horse caravans transporting goods on the Tea and Horse Road once went through Qinglong street 青龙街, a historical street in the village of Banqiao 板桥, a rural suburb of Baoshan 保山.

After spending some time looking for the Qinglong street 青龙街 – literally the ‘Blue-green Dragon Street’ – the concrete pavement gave way to a cobble-stone street. Like in the streets of Shaxi, Lushi and other trading post on the Tea and Horse Road, slab-stone had been laid in the middle. People with a higher rank in society walked on the slab-stones, in the middle, and the commoners on the cobbles, on each side. An influence of Confucianism.

Above the gate (in the middle in the picture above) built during the reign of Emperor Qianlong of the Qing, the two characters 魁阁 (kuige) indicate the location of an altar dedicated to Kuixing (魁星), the deity of good fortune in examination revered by scholars and wanna-be officials who wanted success in the imperial examination. Another sign of the influence of Confucianism brought by the trading of goods along the Tea and Horse Road (those who were taking the imperial examination had to master the writing of Confucius and the Chinese Classics). In Shaxi, the altar to Kuixing is hidden in the tower behind the performance stage and there are many more two-storied pavilions (that’s what ge 阁 mean) dedicated to Kuixing in the valley.

At first, I had to admit that except a few temples, ancestral and the Kuixing Pavilion, there was not much to see in Banqiao. The place was deserted and locals looked at me in disbelief. Yet, the Qinglong historical street put in perspective the other places I visited along the Tea and Horse Road. Banqiao and its history, like many other historical places and rural area in China, had been forgotten by development.

In Banqiao 板桥, I asked an old man in his tuk-tuk if there were any other places linked to the old Tea and Horse Road. He had a thick Yunnanese accent, but managed to negotiate the fare to my next destination of Jinji 金鸡 – literally, the ‘Golden Rooster’.

The ancient theatre of Jinji (金鸡古戏台) was built during the Ming dynasty and dominated a market square (usually known as ‘sifang jie‘ 四方街 in Chinese) which took shape during the Han and Jin dynasties, almost 2000 years ago. At least that was the inlaid stone stele said. Jinji was a nod in this old network of trade routes that linked Yunnan to the rest of China and the world.

Getting around

Your journey across these villages will probably start in the provincial capital of Kunming 昆明 with a bus (or flight) to Dali 大理 and from Dali / Xiaguan 下关area.
Read my Kunming bus stations and schedule guide as well as my guide to Dali / Xiaguan transportation hub which, along with my tips about bus tickets and bus rides in rural China, are essential read for bus travel in Yunnan.

If you are not traveling on a budget, go to Kunming Changshui Airport and jump on a plane to Shangrila, Lijiang, Dali, Baoshan, or Tengchong and continue by bus.

Chinese Name: 严家大院
Location: 1 Fuchunli, Sifang Street, Xizhou Old Town, Dali
Occupation: 2478 square meters

Dali Yan Family Compound in Xizhou Town travel guide introduces the main attractions, entrance tickets booking, The best time to visit, How to Get there, the highlights, facts, history, photos, weather, accommodation, visiting routes, travel tips, tour maps of Yan Family Compound in Dali.

Before Visit to Yan Family Compound:

Thirty-three kilometers from Xiaguan and by the side of Erhai Lake lies the town of Xizhou. Historically, it was a military fortress of the ancient Nanzhao Kingdom as well as the Nanzhao King’s temporary palace. Because of its favourable geographical situation, before 1949 the town used to be a commercial center that was home to more than 140 national capitalist families including the successful Yan, Dong, the Yin and Yang families. In recent years, streets and roads have been widened, new markets have been established, and a scene of prosperity prevails. In 1988, one of the Yang family’s compounds was opened to foreign visitors and was called “Xizhou Tianzhuang” (Countryside Villa at Xizhou) by the Tourist Bureau of Dali Prefecture.

Chinese Name: 永胜县红石崖古地震遗址
English Name:Ancient Earthquake Site of Hongshiyan in Yongsheng County, Lijiang

Hongshiyan is the best-preserved earthquake site in the world, formed after a major earthquake 500 years ago. It showcases the awe-inspiring aspects of nature with its torn and collapsed features. Located about 2 kilometers northwest of Yongsheng County (along the Liyong Highway), the Hongshiyan Canyon is approximately 9 kilometers long and 3 kilometers wide, with the valley floor dropping about 500 meters to the highest peak, covering a total area of 54 square kilometers. This site holds great scientific research, exploration, and recreational tourism value, serving as a precious resource left by nature for the people of Yongsheng, waiting to be developed and protected.

The 1515 Earthquake

According to the Yunnan Tongzhi from the Ming Dynasty, a significant earthquake occurred on May 6, 1515 (the sixth year of the Zhengde era). With a magnitude of 8.1, the earthquake’s epicenter intensity reached 10 degrees, classifying it as a tectonic earthquake. Due to the earthquake’s high magnitude and strong intensity, the energy was concentrated, causing the mountains in the affected area to be torn apart and creating numerous cracks of varying widths, the longest of which stretches for 2 kilometers and is found on the northern cliff. The earthquake tore apart and collapsed the mountains, forming the large rift valley we see today, which is 50 to 300 meters wide, 500 meters deep, and 9 kilometers long.

A giant “sinkhole” was also created on the eastern side of the rift valley. This earthquake destroyed many homes in the ancient county town—then known as Beishengzhou—and redirected the originally north-south flowing Lingyuanqing water system to an east-west direction, leading to the formation of the Wulang River system flowing from Hongshiyan to San Chuanba. During the earthquake, mountains collapsed, and a large amount of limestone erupted from the surface, leaving behind different levels and platforms. The earthquake rift valley formed a bottomless abyss, with steep cliff walls on both sides, peculiar stone formations, and a spectacular landscape.

Prominent experts have conducted studies at the earthquake site multiple times, resulting in several research papers. Professor Bruhn, a geological expert from the University of California, visited Hongshiyan for research twice in 1982, stating, “This is the most complete and magnificent ancient earthquake site in the world.” In April 2005, this earthquake site was approved by the National Earthquake Bureau as the “Yongsheng Hongshiyan National Earthquake Site.”

Scenic Attractions

After enjoying the spectacular views of the ancient earthquake site, visitors can continue north to Daguanping, located 1 kilometer north of the “sinkhole.” This area is densely forested, with wild rabbits and mountain chickens visible throughout. Walking for an hour along the terraced slopes of Daguanping leads to the summit of Guanshan, where a panoramic view of Yongsheng and the beautiful Yulong Snow Mountain in Lijiang can be enjoyed. The rocks at the mountain peak are uniquely shaped, and many peonies and herbaceous plants grow among the crevices of the rocks. In spring, wild grasses and mountain flowers bloom, creating a vibrant scene. About 200 meters down the eastern slope from the mountain top is Linxian Pool, covering an area of approximately 10 acres, where the beautiful mountain scenery is reflected, creating an enchanting sight.

Historical Impact of the Earthquake

According to historical records, the earthquake affected areas including Dali, Lijiang, Heqing, Jianchuan, and more. It caused severe damage in today’s Yongbei Town, with over 20 square kilometers experiencing land subsidence of about 20 meters toward the northwest. The northern part of the basin broke apart, forming numerous ravines and pits. The earthquake expanded the fractures at Hongshiyan, leading to rock collapses and the disappearance of spring water sources. Over 1,500 houses collapsed, and more than a thousand people were injured or killed.

Longmen Gorge Site

Another site formed by the earthquake is the Longmen Gorge to Qiaotou River site. Longmen Gorge, also known as Shimen Pass, is traversed by the Salt Pond River, extending over 20 li. The northern gorge features towering peaks, while the southern gorge is slightly lower. Along the banks of the river, steep cliffs with predominantly dark red and black rock walls create a dramatic landscape. The valley is deep, and the cliffs once hosted ibex, making it daunting to approach.

The Salt Pond River flows through Longmen Gorge for over ten li, with the Qiaotou River at the foot of Xishan Pass, where the landscape becomes flat. An ancient transportation route, the Tea-Horse Road, connects the ancient Yongsheng County to the San Chuanba Jin Guan market. The Mengchuan Bridge, built here, signifies eternal stability and has historical significance.

Xishan Caohai

San Chuanba in Yongsheng originally belonged to the Jinguang and Liangguan areas, which merged to form San Chuan Town. Covering an area of 85 square kilometers, it currently has 63,148 acres of arable land and a population of over 60,000. San Chuan has always been a grain base of Yongsheng, especially during the Qing Dynasty. The area features large grasslands and a flat landscape surrounded by mountain ranges due to the geological formation resulting from the Yongsheng Great Earthquake.

The vast expanse of greenery and flowers creates a picturesque scene, especially with the backdrop of the snow-capped Yulong Snow Mountain. The area hosts the “Diyizhai Caohai”—the most famous grazing ground in Yunnan, attracting tourists to enjoy leisure time and picnics. The grasslands are home to many animals, including wild goats, cattle, and horses.

Cultural Significance

The ancient earthquake site of Hongshiyan provides not only a geological spectacle but also historical significance, revealing the resilience and adaptation of local communities. The scenic area has become a focal point for cultural events, educational research, and eco-tourism, contributing to the preservation of local history and natural heritage.

Summary

In summary, Hongshiyan and its surrounding regions, including Longmen Gorge and San Chuanba, present a remarkable blend of natural beauty and historical significance. These sites provide insights into geological phenomena and serve as reminders of the region’s past, making them important for both conservation and tourism. As Yongsheng continues to develop its tourism potential, the Hongshiyan earthquake site stands as a testament to the power of nature and the enduring spirit of its people.

Chinese Name: 永胜县营盘村墓群
English Name: Ancient Tombs of Yingpan Village in Yongsheng County, Lijiang

The Yingpan Village Tomb Complex is located in the northeastern part of Yushui Village, Liude Township, Yongsheng County, Lijiang City, Yunnan Province. Covering an area of approximately 304,000 square meters, the site contains 6,340 tombs, dating from the Ming Dynasty (Wanli Period, 1573–1619) to the Republic of China era, with an estimated usage span of around 400 years. The latest construction dates back to the late Ming or early Qing Dynasty, with the tombs belonging to surnames such as Hai, Lan, Wang, and Chen. Nearby, a castle sits on a gentle slope, covering 1.31 million square meters, surrounded by mountains to the east, west, and north, with an open area to the south. In May 2006, it was announced as a national key cultural relic protection unit, becoming part of the sixth batch of such sites.

Historical Significance

On May 25, 2006, the Yingpan Village Tomb Complex, recognized as ancient tombs from the Ming to Qing Dynasties, was approved by the State Council to be included in the list of the sixth batch of national key cultural relic protection units. The complex is situated in Yingpan Village, 30 kilometers southeast of Yongsheng County. The stele forest covers an area of about 5 square kilometers, with countless stone steles scattered across the landscape. The most concentrated tomb area is approximately 3 square kilometers. The tombs are built against the mountains, adorned with tall stone columns and steles, all hidden within lush greenery. There are tens of thousands of tombstones, arranged meticulously and artistically.

Detailed Introduction to Yingpan Village Tomb Complex

The tomb complex is constructed in harmony with the mountainous terrain, mostly consisting of domed stone tombs, which share similar structures. The tombstones can be categorized into two types: flat steles and deep steles. The steles are generally rectangular, with heights ranging from 1.5 to 2 meters and widths of about 1.5 to 4 meters. The bases are centered with qilin stones, flanked by deer and horse stones, floral stones, and flat stones, leaving a space in the middle for an altar. On either side of the altar are stele columns and 八字 (Ba Zi) stones, which bear inscriptions on stone tablets (also known as spirit tablets) and central columns. The heart of the stele features a semi-circular hat stone and rectangular flat stone. All inscriptions are in Chinese characters, written in a clear and strong regular script, showcasing exquisite craftsmanship, with the hat stone arching over the stele. The frames of the steles come in single and double frames. The decorations on the tomb surfaces, including divine flowers, auspicious clouds, treasure vases, and mythical creatures, are primarily in bas-relief and are remarkably beautiful.

Artistic Features

The designs on the semi-circular hat’s edges vary widely, featuring motifs such as phoenixes facing the sun, dragons playing with pearls, pairs of cranes greeting each other, dragons seizing treasures, lotus dragons, bats, and lizards. The central orb is particularly striking, depicting symbols of the sun, moon, and jewels; some use the yin-yang fish symbol, representing the Taiji symbol of Daoism. There are also engravings of the characters “福” (fortune) and “寿” (longevity), symbolizing the deceased’s blessings and longevity, alongside Confucian ancestral worship motifs wishing for descendants’ good fortune and success. The 八字 stone typically depicts motifs of young boys wishing for longevity, civil and military officials, plum blossoms, chrysanthemums, magpies, and auspicious vases, with patterns that signify auspiciousness. Two fierce lions are depicted in a hanging posture to convey dignity. The upper sections display sword-like brush strokes, with protective mythical beasts (often referred to as “dog heads”) and adornments like tile roofs, carved flower windows, or 八卦 diagrams (with punctures evenly carved).

Cultural Importance

The qilin statues on the base stones are diverse and unique, with no two identical in form, except for a few featuring jade belts, lotus flowers, and pairs of lions with fireballs. This reflects a rich qilin cultural atmosphere. On either side of the base stones, the deer and horse stones or floral patterns often depict the twelve zodiac animals; interestingly, the pig is notably absent from this representation. The intricately carved reliefs are lively and vivid.

The Yingpan Village Tomb Complex serves as an open-air stone art museum, unmatched in scale among the minority ethnic areas in the country. With nearly ten thousand tombstones that initially appear to share similar designs, closer inspection reveals unique details; the superb carving artistry makes each stone artifact a work of art with immense artistic value. The tomb complex embodies the history of Yingpan Village and serves as a successful example of how minority ethnic groups have accepted, absorbed, and integrated Han culture, showcasing the prosperous political, economic, and cultural era of its ancestors. It is an important historical building within Yingpan Village and stands as one of the historical traces of its culture and people. However, academic research on the Yingpan Village Tomb Complex remains limited, with few existing materials available. Therefore, it represents not only a valuable cultural heritage but also a significant artifact for uncovering the mysterious history of its inhabitants, filling gaps in the study of China’s ethnic minorities, and serving as a rare cultural tourism resource.

Current Condition and Threats

There are over 6,340 recorded tombs in the complex, of which more than 2,500 are well-preserved, while nearly 3,000 tombs have collapsed or severely weathered, facing numerous risks. The complex is surrounded by three natural villages and has several chaotic footpaths running through it. Livestock raised by villagers roam freely, with small animals nesting among the tombs and larger livestock grazing within the complex, leading to significant damage to the tombs due to rubbing and collapsing. In recent years, instances of tomb raiding have occurred occasionally, making management exceedingly difficult. Due to its remote mountain location, dense vegetation, and high humidity, natural damage to the tombstones is exceptionally severe.

Moreover, with the long passage of time, many tombstones exhibit signs of damage and weathering, including deterioration of the guardian beasts on the support columns and the collapse of blue stones on either side, causing the tombs to lean inward. The tombstones are made of loose silicate sandstone, which has endured centuries of wind, rain, and harmful gas erosion, leading to weathering, biological corrosion, and partial pulverization, flaking, and cracking. Inscriptions are often covered by moss, rendering them difficult to read; some are barely recognizable. The porous structure of the sandstone facilitates the penetration of harmful components deep into the stone, leading to damage. When moisture enters the stone’s crevices, it reacts with the sandstone, causing efflorescence and frost spalling, rapidly weathering and cracking the stones. Years of exposure to wind and rain have resulted in mold and moss growth on the rock surfaces, infiltrating the sandstone’s pores and causing biological corrosion.

In summary, without timely protective measures, these precious stone carvings may be lost forever.

Preservation Efforts

In September 2015, commissioned by the Yongsheng Cultural Broadcasting and Television Sports Bureau, our organization undertook the investigation, surveying, design, and scheme preparation for the protective fencing project around the Yingpan Village Tomb Complex. The protection project involves constructing protective fencing for the tomb complex and arranging visitor pathways. Its commencement will ensure effective preservation of the Yingpan Village Tomb Complex. The proposal was completed and submitted in October 2015, and in November of the same year, it received approval from the Yunnan Provincial Cultural Relics Bureau and entered the preparation phase for the project.

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