Overview
Wenshan Zhuang Brocade (文山壮锦) is a traditional handcrafted textile of the Zhuang ethnic group in Wenshan (文山). It is one of the four most famous brocades in China, alongside Shu Brocade (蜀锦), Yun Brocade (云锦), and Song Brocade (宋锦). Made from cotton or silk threads, it features bright colors, bold patterns, and strong ethnic characteristics.
Origins
Archaeological evidence confirms that brocade weaving existed in Guangxi (广西) as early as the Han Dynasty. According to Tang Liu Qu (《唐六曲》) and Yuanhe County Annals (《元和郡县志》), the various fabrics woven by the Zhuang people were already considered imperial tributes by feudal dynasties. True brocades, however, appeared during the Song Dynasty.
Legend
Legend has it that in ancient times, a Zhuang (壮族) mother lived at the foot of a mountain with her three sons. A master weaver, she created a beautiful brocade featuring houses, gardens, fields, orchards, vegetable plots, and ponds, along with chickens, ducks, cattle, and sheep. One day, a gust of wind carried the brocade eastward into the sky—it was taken by a group of fairies who wished to use it as a model for their weaving.
The eldest and second sons were sent to retrieve it but gave up and squandered their money in the city. The youngest son, aided by a magical stone horse, crossed volcanoes and seas to find the brocade among the fairies. He stealthily reclaimed it and returned home. As he approached, the brocade unfolded under the sunlight and transformed into a beautiful homeland. To his surprise, one fairy, having fallen in love with the brocade, embroidered her image into it and returned with him. They married and lived a life of harmony—he farming, she weaving.
Historical Development
Zhuang Brocade (壮锦) originated in the Song Dynasty. Early brocades were woven from silk, hemp, and cotton-silk blends. Created on handlooms equipped with support systems, transmission devices, heddles, and jacquard mechanisms, it uses cotton yarn as the warp and colored silk velvet as the weft. The brocade is made using a method of continuous warp and discontinuous weft interweaving.
Patterns and Uses
Wenshan Zhuang Brocade (文山壮锦) is mainly used for making door curtains, bed canopies, bed sheets, quilt covers, baby carriers, belts, headscarves, shawls, handbags, shoe tops, blankets, and decorative garment trims such as collars, sleeves, waistbands, and cuffs.
Tools and Motifs
Key weaving tools include the bamboo-cage loom, Longzhou (龙州) loom, and Jingxi (靖西) loom. Common motifs include cloud patterns, thunder motifs, wave patterns, weaving patterns, meander motifs, feather patterns, checkerboard motifs, string patterns, octagonal motifs, and circular patterns. Popular animal and nature designs include “Twin Phoenixes Facing the Sun” (双凤朝阳), “Phoenix with Peony” (凤穿牡丹), “Peacocks Stirring the Sea” (孔雀闹海), “Fish Leaping Over the Dragon Gate” (鱼跃龙门), “Mandarin Ducks Playing in Water” (鸳鸯戏水), “Treasure Ducks Through Lotus” (宝鸭穿莲), “Deer Crossing Mountains” (子鹿穿山), and “Six-Eared Water Knot” (水波六耳结).
Production Process
Creating Wenshan Zhuang Brocade (文山壮锦) involves 15 complex steps:
- Warping
- Beam warping
- Drawing through reeds
- Combing and winding
- Mounting the loom
- Separating minor heddles
- Separating major heddles / threading jacquard heddles
- Threading reeds
- Making the shuttle
- Weaving the selvage
- Picking motifs and setting the base
- Adjusting warp and weft opening
- Designing patterns (with colors)
- Throwing the shuttle
- Beating the weft
Raw Materials and Dyeing
The primary materials are silk and cotton yarn. Velvet is made entirely by the weaver, from mulberry cultivation and silkworm rearing to spinning, bleaching, and dyeing. Cotton yarn goes through seeding, fluffing, spinning, dyeing, and starching. Natural dyes are derived from local plants and minerals:
- Red: clay pigments, safflower, sappanwood
- Yellow: yellow clay, turmeric
- Blue: indigo
- Green: bark, green grass
- Gray: black soil, plant ash
Cultural Significance
Wenshan Zhuang Brocade (文山壮锦) is a cultural gem reflecting the wisdom of the Zhuang people. It embodies their reverence for life, nature, and cultural heritage, representing a deep yearning for a better life. It holds significant historical, cultural, and artistic value as part of the broader Chinese traditional culture.
Path of Development
In recent years, Wenshan Zhuang Brocade (文山壮锦) has continued to evolve while preserving its roots. On one hand, integration with modern design and craftsmanship has led to the development of products that appeal to contemporary tastes and markets. On the other hand, cultural activities and tourism promotions have increased public awareness and appreciation, helping to introduce Zhuang Brocade to broader domestic and international markets.
