Kunming Old House Restaurant (一颗印昆明老房子餐厅 in Chinese, Pinyin: Yi Ke Yin Lao Fang Zi ) is a 100-years-old Qing-dynasty style building originally constructed in 1852. Yi Ke Ying is the vivid description for it, which means the bird-eye view is something like an ancient seal. Yunnan famous local food is served here. The vintage restaurant serves authentic Yunnan delicacies, and is also where visitors to Kunming can enjoy steamed chicken, roasted pork on tiles, and fried Er’kuai (locally called Da Jiu Jia). Nearby sites include Jingxing Free Market, Nanping Pedestrian Street and Shuncheng Shopping Mall etc.
Tel: 0871-63644555
Add: Jingxing Market
Transport
Public Bus No. 10, 82, 84,116, stop at west entrance to Nanping Pedestrian Street
Lao Fangzi Restaurant 一颗印
By 6.00 o’clock the restaurant is packed and queues are beginning to line up in the waiting area. A palpable sense of expectation hovers in the air as customers mull over the huge menu, occasionally lifting their heads to glance at their fellow diners and nodding in approval as a dish is selected. The waiters stand around patiently, sometimes suggesting dishes to speed the indecisive along. As orders are taken to the kitchen, the carriers -whose job it is only to carry food to the tables on large trays – begin scurrying backwards and forwards between kitchen and dining area, delivering large plates of unfamiliar, yet delicious looking food. A veritable army of waiting staff in traditional uniforms then take the dishes from the trays and serve them to the suitably impressed diners. The noise level begins to rise as beer bottles are opened, or Chinese rice wine is tossed down gulping throats to the shouts of Ganbei/ Cheers!
This is Lao Fangzi in central Kunming where food doesn’t come much better and the ambience puts the icing on the cake. One of the few – maybe the last- remaining genuine old houses in central Kunming, Lao Fangzi (the Old House) is one of the city’s best dining spots. How it has escaped the guide books is a mystery.
The Place:
The 150-year-old building is an old grey stone, two- storey court- yard residence of the type known locally as ‘stamp houses’, due to their square shape. Once, this type of building was the embodiment of much of the vernacular architecture of central Kunming. Today, Lao Fangzi stands alone under the shadow of towering neon- lit skyscrapers, surrounded by the broken and dilapidated remains of old Kunming; an eloquent symbol of what could have been preserved if speculation and reckless urban planning hadn’t been allowed to prevail over conservation and restoration.
On the ground floor, diners either eat in the open space of the central patio, or under the covered areas surrounding it. Upstairs, couples can eat on small tables overlooking the patio, while bigger groups are ushered into large, wooden rooms with huge round tables. For people watching and soaking up the ambience, the side areas are obviously the best. The red lanterns, fantastic smells, and general hubbub of contented customers lend the finishing touches.
The Food:
The enormous menu comes with pictures to orientate the non-mandarin speaker. Fish, meat and mushrooms are the specialities, but you could probably come every day for several weeks and still eat something different. You can tell just how fresh the fish is by the number of times the cooks have to come out of the kitchen to catch one escaping from the tanks.
Our favourite dishes include thinly sliced, dry roasted squid which has to be dipped in spicy salt, fried rice- noodle squares (a local favourite), spicy fish served on a bed of tofu slices, cold buckwheat noodles, prawns cooked in salt, and any type of mushrooms they have in season.
Prices range from fairly cheap to quite expensive. It’s certainly a place to go with two or more people, so as to try as many dishes as possible; especially since portions are quite large.
A meal with four or five dishes and beer will cost around 200 to 250 Yuan, depending on how much alcohol is drunk and on whether you choose the special mushrooms.
Be careful when ordering those mushrooms; price is usually determined by weight and season. Some, like the ones called Ganba (tiny, bat-eared mushrooms that are almost completely black), can easily reach 200 Yuan for a dish.
If, like us, you have a craving for special mushrooms and really want to pig out on them, you might do well to take a trip to the small village of Heijing, some 3 hours from Kunming, where restaurants specialising in mushrooms serve them up at a fraction of the price (For more info, consult our future article on Heijing)。
Getting There:
The restaurant is easy to find; it is in the very heart of downtown Kunming, near the flower market. From Dongfeng Xi Lu (almost opposite Shuncheng, once the old Muslim neighbourhood, but now a pedestrian shopping area) you need to dive down a small street, pass a large church, after which you’ll see the unmistakeable doorway.
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Music Men
Add: A-5, Xinglong Residential Quarter, on the opposite of Biji Square
Tel: 130 9996 6629
Blue Bar
Add: 10 Fuyongdao Alley, Wenlin Street
Tel: 135 2945 0269
METOO Bar
Add: 4 Dingxin St (beside Xiangyun Foodies Centre)
Tel: 0871-6319 0955
Hump Bar
Add: near the Golden Horse and Jade Rooster Archways
Tel: 133 5490 7604
Banbu One
Add: Taiyuan Rd (behind the Carrefour Supermarket)
Tel: 0871-6831 1673
80s Bar
Add: 68 Xingang Residential Quarter
Tel: 189 8829 7111, 188 8718 6698
ShiGuangManBu Club
Add: 06, B area, Shopping Mall of New Workers’ Culture Palace, Renmindong Rd
Tel: 18669105207
Hexi Bar
Add: 176, Xingyuan Rd, Xishan District (near the local council of Xishan district)
Tel: 0871-6819 1541
Heilin Bar
Add: 2, 2nd floor, Building 2, Wanxiangcheng, 130 Huanchengdong Rd
Tel: 0871-6333 4122
Xiangyue Bar
Add: first floor, 44 Linjiang Garden, Binjingxi Road
Tel: 0871-6337 6808
Lejiahuang Billiard Bar
Add: third floor Tongluowan Seafood Restaurant, 378 Wujing Rd.
Tel: 0871-6336 0506
You can play billiards and enjoy songs presented by singers.
It is a restaurant chain, Yunnan especially Kunming, serving authentic cross-bridge rice noodle which is a must-try dish for visitors to Kunming.
Deriving its name from the cross-bridge story in Nanhu Lake of Mengzi County in South Yunnan, the cross-bridge rice boodle is served in a big pot, in which the hot soup is prepared and sliced chicken, fish, or pork will go after, and finally the vegetables and rice noodle.
The Brothers Jiang is the largest chain restaurants in Yunnan serving authentic Cross-Bridge Rice Noodle. There are dozens of outlets in Kunming and here is a list for these outlets.
Jinma Biji Outlet
Add: Jinbi Pedestrian Street, near the Golden Horse and Jade Rooster archways
Tel: 0871-6364 5275
Transport
Public bus
No. 3, 4, 62, 73, 90, 98, 107, 120, 213, A1, K12, stop at Golden Horse Archway
No. 10, 66, 82, 84, 116, K13, stop at West Entrance to Nanping Pedestrian Street
No. 107, 148, K12, stop at Dongsi Street
Xiaoximen Outlet
Add: Road Crossing of Renminzhong Road and Dongfengxi Road
Tel: 0871-6537 8206
Fax: 0871-6537 8206
Transport
Public bus No. K13, K5, K13, 5, 2, 10, 14, 17, 18, 21, 26, 33, 52, 554, 56, 61, 65, 66, 69, 82, 84, 95, 98, 100, 116, 189, 237, 919, stop at Xiaoximen
Nanjiang Outlet
Add: 326, Dongfengxi Rd.
Tel: 0871-6531 7723
Fax: 0871-6531 7723
Transport
Public bus No. K13, K5, K13, 5, 2, 10, 14, 17, 18, 21, 26, 33, 52, 554, 56, 61, 65, 66, 69, 82, 84, 95, 98, 100, 116, 189, 237, 919, stop at Xiaoximen
Dongsi Street Outlet
Add: Shop 1, Building A, Dongfang Square, Dongsi Street
Tel: 0871-6418 6061
Fax: 0871-6418 6061
Transport
Public bus
No. 3, 64, 66, 73, 110, 127, 184, A1, stop at Dongsi Street
No. 137, 152, stop at Kunming Labor Union
No. 3, 64, 66, 73, 110, 127, 184, A1, stop at Gong Ren Xin Cun
Mixian Zhuyi
Add: Jinbi Pedestrian Street, near the Golden Horse and Jade Rooster archways
Tel: 0871-6333 8958
Fax: 0871-6333 8958
Transport
Public bus
No. 3, 4, 62, 73, 90, 98, 107, 120, 213, A1, K12, stop at Golden Horse Archway
No. 10, 66, 82, 84, 116, K13, stop at West Entrance to Nanping Pedestrian Street
No. 107, 148, K12, stop at Dongsi Street
Green Lake Outlet
Add: 4, Cuihunan Rd (near the Green Lake Hotel)
Tel: 0871-6514 1502
Fax: 0871-6514 1502
Transport
Public bus
No. 2, 54, 56, 61, 65, 69, 95, 189, 237, stop at Wuyi Road
No. 1, 95, 119, stop at Qingyun Street
No. 125, 133, stop at Yunnan Provincial Library
Zhengyifang Outlet
Add: Wenming Street, Building A2, Zhengyifang, Kunming Old Street (downtown)
Tel: 0871-6836 9411
Fax: 0871-6836 9411
Transport
Public bus No. K9, 56, 65, 77, 92, 119, 125, 132, 133, 187, 189, stop at Zhengyi Road
Daguan Outlet
Add: First Floor, Natie Apartment Building, Huanchengxi Rd
Tel: 0871-6535 7131
Fax: 0871-6535 7131
Transport
Public bus No. K13, K5, K13, 5, 2, 10, 14, 17, 18, 21, 26, 33, 52, 554, 56, 61, 65, 66, 69, 82, 84, 95, 98, 100, 116, 189, 237, 919, stop at Xiaoximen
Nanping Street Outlet
Add: Zhiguo Alley, Gaoshanpu, Nanping Street
Tel: 0871-6363 3708
Fax: 0871-6363 3708
Transport
Public bus
No. 3, 4, 62, 73, 90, 98, 107, 120, 213, A1, K12, stop at Golden Horse Archway
No. 10, 66, 82, 84, 116, K13, stop at West Entrance to Nanping Pedestrian Street
No. 68, 71, 108, 118, 234, stop at East Entrance to Nanping Pedestrian Street
Metro Line 2, stop at Dongfeng Square
Beijing Road Outlet
Add: 150, Beijing Rd
Tel: 0871-6319 0346
Fax: 0871-6319 0346
Transport
Public bus
No. 24, 44, 58, 59, 64, 75, 80, 89, 98, 107, 111(jia), 117, 184, 919, C85, k12, stop at Shuanglong Shopping Centre
No. 2, 23, 47, 68, 236, C85, stop at Beijing Road (Jin Jiang Hotel)
Metro Line 1, 2, stop at Huanchengnan Road
Shuanglong Outlet
Add: 345, Huanchengnan Rd
Tel: 0871-6355 2988
Fax: 0871-6355 2988
Transport
Public bus No. 24, 44, 58, 59, 64, 75, 80, 89, 98, 107, 111(jia), 117, 184, 919, C1, C85, k12, stop at Shuanglong Shopping Centre
Metro Line 1, stop at Huanchengnan Road
Guomao Outlet
Add: Unit 1, Building B, WanXingYingXiang Residential Quarter, near Kunming International Convention and Exhibition Centre
Tel: 0871-6362 3512
Fax 0871-6362 3512
Transport
Public bus
No. 122, stop at Baohai Park
No. Z33, stop at Changcun Road Crossing (Changrui Street)
Metro Line 1, stop at Kunming International Convention and Exhibition Centre
Qingnian Road Outlet
Add: 87, Qingnian Road
Tel: 0871-6515 1571
Fax: 0871-6515 1571
Transport
Public bus
No. 4, 59, 74, 78, 83, 100, 101, 129, 234, A2, stop at Yuantong Mt
No. 4, 59, 74, 78, 83, 91, 129, 234, A2, stop at Qingnian Road
No. 85, 95, 100, 101, 119, 235, Z5, stop at Yuantong Street
Kunming Corridor Outlet
Add: First Floor, Kunming Corridor, Xinxinan Shopping Mall, Renminzhong Rd.
Tel: 0871-6318 7566
Fax: 0871-6318 7566
Transport
Public bus
No. 1, 2, 54, 61, 69, 74, 77, 78, 83, 132, 237, K5, k9, stop at Xiaohuayuan
No. 1, 2 54, 61, 69, 237, K5, stop at Confucius Temple
Donghua Outlet
Add: 63, Renmindong Rd
Tel: 0871-6339 5267
Fax: 0871-6339 5267
Transport
Public bus
No. 47, 54, 74, 77, 108, 237, 919, B1, K9, stop at Yan’an Hospital (Renmindong Road)
No. A13, stop at Donghua Residential Quarter
No. 25, 72, 75, 103, 108, 111, 114, 182, 205, 249, A11, A13, A1, stop at Yan’an Hospital (Huanchengdong Road)
South Asia Town
Add: -1 Floor, CBD Shopping Mall, South Asia Town, Dianchi Rd.
Tel: 0871-6533 5504
Fax: 0871-6533 5504
Transport
Public bus
No. 44, 73, 91, 106, 120, 166, 203, 233, A1, C142, K15, stop at Fuhai Town
No. 166, 233, C142, stop at Heqing Village
No. 166, 233, C142, stop at Heqing Alley
Xingyao Outlet
Add: Road Crossing of Caiyunbei Road and Xingyao Road
Tel: 0871-6313 5169
Fax: 0871-6313 5169
Transport
Public bus
No. 12, 103, 149, 154, 170, 213, 902, 919, A6, C12, C137, C13, D13, Z34, stop at Zijun Village
Metro Line 1, stop at Xingyao Road
Jinxing Outlet
Add: West Entrance to Jinxing Residential Quarter
Tel: 0871-6571 3183
Fax: 0871-6571 3183
Transport
Public bus
No. 25, 254, stop at Baiyun Road
No. 3, 23, 61, 71, 79, 96, 146, 234, 236, k5, Z42, Z45, stop at Baiyun road crossing (Tongde Square)
No. 3, 25, stop at West Entrance to Jinxing Residential Quarter
Metro Line 2, stop at Jinxing
Longquan Outlet
Add: First Floor, Carrefour Supermarket, 39, Longquan Rd.
Tel: 0871-6515 1970
Fax: 0871-6515 1970
Transport
Public bus
No. 9, 74, 84, 105, 114, 129, 175, 214, stop at Xiamacun
No. 10, 55, 59, 92, 96, 105, 114, 146, stop at Jiang’an Residential Quarter
No. 115, 139, stop at Xiamaxincun
Dashanghui Outlet
Add: Qianxing Rd, Xishan District
Tel: 0871-6353 2860
Fax: 0871-6353 2860
Transport
Public bus
No. 3, 24, 66, 110, 112, 127, 185, 186,919, C1, Z13, stop at Yunnan Gynecology Hospital
No. 3, 24, 110, 127, 185, Z13, stop at Lvying Avenue
No. 186, stop at Lvying Avenue
Rice cakes (Erkuai) are manually rolled through traditional process, featured by soft, glutinous, white, pleasant and sweet taste. Sesame & Peanut Sauce, specialty sauce of Yingfeng, is sweet, delicious and authentic, and reserves the genuine traditional flavor of Kunming.
Add: No. 37, Jinbi Road, Xishan District, Kunming (Jinbi Branch)
Transport
Take No. 4, 59 and 62 Bus and get off at Deshengqiao stop.
Recommended
Bitter Buckwheat Rice Cake, Red Rice Cake, Corn Rice Cake, Glutinous Rice Cake
Sightseeing nearby: Jin Ma Fang, Dongsi Pagoda
Featured by Dali food culture, it concentrates cultural elements of ethnic foods in Yunnan and makes them perfectly integrate with dishes of Sichuan, Yunnan, Hunan and Guangdong. While diners taste delicious food, they can have a view of beautiful scenery at the same time.
Add: A1 Compound, Phase II of Guandu Ancient Town Residential District, Guangfu Road, Guandu District, Kunming
Tel: 0871-6728 6789
Transport
Take No. 31, 165 Bus and get off at Guandu Ancient Town stop.
Recommended Food: Raw Shrimp, Erhai Liquor-Soaked Shrimps
Sightseeing nearby: Guandu Ancient Town
“Three Courses” absorbs essence of folk-cooked chicken, lamp and fish. With unique formula, it has bright color and tempting flavor.
Add: No. 44, Jiangdong Commercial Street, Middle Beichen Road, Jiangdong Garden Residential District, Panlong District, Kunming (Jiangdong Branch)
Tel: 0871-6573 6679 (Jiangdong Branch)
Transport
Take No. 146, 236 Bus and get off at Jiangdong Garden Residential District (Beijing Road) stop.
Recommended Food
Hot and Sour Fish with Vermicelli and Tofu, Steamed Pork with Shredded Turnip
Sightseeing nearby: Shuanglong Temple, Baiyi Temple
Open from 10:00 am to 10:00 pm. There are 6 private rooms and a parking lot. It can accommodate about 300 diners.
The name of Glass Space makes you feel permeable and heroic. Here services are intimate, dishes are superior, delicate and elegant, with refreshing flavors.
Add: No. 133, Baohai Road, Guandu District, Kunming (beside Baohai Park)
Tel: 0871-6352 8618
Transport
Take No. 57, 122, 140 Bus and get off at Kunming International Convention & Exhibition Center stop.
Recommended Food
Cross-Bridge Rice Noodles, Braised Abalone and Chicken in Casserole, Fruit Steak.
Sightseeing nearby: Kunming International Convention & Exhibition Center, Baohai Park
It integrates characteristic flavors of Jingpo Nationality, Dai Nationality, De’ang Nationality, and Achang Nationality cuisine. There are three major brands, respectively “Jingpo Cuisine Specialty Restaurant”, “Specialty Hot Pot”, “Specialty Soup”.
Add: 1/F, Guangye Building, No. 310, Jinbi Road, Wuhua District, Kunming (Jinbi Branch)
Tel: 0871-63116466 (Jinbi Branch)
Transport
Take No. 3, 4 Bus and get off at Deshengqiao (Jinbi Road) stop.
Recommended Food
Cold Shredded Black-Boned Chicken, Sapie (Cold Meat with Special Dressing), Pineapple Rice, Jingpo Pork Ribs, Sautéed Chicken with Black Fungus.
Sightseeing nearby: Jin Ma Fang, Tongren Street
Dai Nationality-flavored cuisine in Dehong Prefecture is different from that in Xishuangbanna. It is quite savory for people liking hot and sour dishes. Dishes are in great variety, vegetable dishes brisk and refreshing, meat dishes fat but not greasy, which are all of good taste.
Add: Xingyuan Road, Xishan District, Kunming (Xingyuan Branch)
Tel: 0871-6819 1156
Transport
Take No. 81, 101 Bus and get off at Liangyuan Residential District stop.
Recommended Food
Cold Shredded Black-Boned Chicken, Lemon Sapie (Cold Meat with Lemon and Special Dressing), Milk with Coconut Mash and Bread, Sapie (Cold Meat with Special Dressing)
Sightseeing nearby: Biji Square, Xinglong Garden
It is a nice theme restaurant capable of hosting theme wedding receptions. Waiters in railway uniform let you experience time travel. Yunnan dishes are served here. Dish names sound like movies. You can eat delicious food accompanied with visual enjoyment.
Add: No. 8, Houxin Street, Xishan District, Kunming (close to back gate of the First People’s Hospital of Kunming)
Tel: 0871-6316 9486
Transport
Take No. 98, 4 Bus and get off at Deshengqiao (Jinbi Road) stop.
Recommended Food
Jintiao Boiled Pea Flour, Sausage with Sichuan Pepper Corns, Spicy Pig Feet, Shredded Rice Pie with Ham
Sightseeing nearby: Dongsi Pagoda, Golden Horse and Jade Rooster archways
Located around Dianchi Lake, looking Western Hills in the distance, it serves multiple types of cuisines. Dining here in the evening is very pleasant. Cuisines of Sichuan, Yunnan and Guangdong are delicious, and concept dishes are occasional and satisfying.
Add: No. 3, the offshore bank of Yinghai Road, Dianchi Holiday Resort, Xishan District, Kunming
Tel: 0871-6433 6606
Cost about RMB 130
Transport
Take No. 171, 183 Bus and get off at Haigeng Dam stop.
Recommended Food
Abalone with Chestnuts, Guangdong Flavored Sausage, Raw Fish, Boiled Fish with Pickled Cabbage and Chili, Dai Flavored Pork Rib with Vanilla, Lobster.
Sightseeing nearby: Haigeng Park, Dianchi Lake
Greenery Café is a western restaurant that integrates Chinese elements. It combines authentic Western food with traditional flavors of local consumers. Beef steak, Spaghetti and pizza are recommendable. Price is reasonable and services are good.
Add: B2/F, Kunming Department Store Xintiandi, Nanping Street West, Wuhua District, Kunming (Kunming Department Store, Xintiandi Branch)
Tel: 0871-66370518 (Kunming Department Store, Xintiandi Branch)
Transport
Take No. 68 Bus and get off at Nanping Street West stop.
Recommended Food
Stir-Fried Rice with Shrimps, Pizza, Set Meal, Beef Steak
Sightseeing nearby: Xisi Pagoda, Kundu, Jin Ma Fang.
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