The Five-Phoenix Tower (五凤楼), originally named Fuyun Pavilion (法云阁), is located at the northern end of Black Dragon Pool Park (黑龙潭公园) in Lijiang (丽江). It was first constructed in the 29th year of the Wanli era (万历二十九年) of the Ming Dynasty (1601) and was designated as a key cultural relic protection unit in Yunnan Province in 1983. The tower is renowned for its exquisite architecture and has gained a prestigious reputation both domestically and internationally.
During the First Year of the Tongzhi era (同治甲子年, 1864), the nearby Fuguo Temple (福国寺) was destroyed by fire. It was rebuilt in the 8th year of the Guangxu era (光绪八年, 1882). The most famous structure of the temple is the Five-Phoenix Tower, which is also referred to as “Liberation Forest” (解脱林). This three-story octagonal pavilion reaches a height of 20 meters and features 24 eaves that resemble five phoenixes ready to take flight, which is how it acquired its name. Unfortunately, during the Cultural Revolution, the temple was destroyed, but the Five-Phoenix Tower and the gate of Liberation Forest were preserved and relocated to Black Dragon Pool Park in 1979, allowing visitors to admire them.
The tower stands 20 meters tall and is structured with a layered three-tiered design, resembling the shape of the character “亚”. It features 32 columns, with four central columns each reaching 12 meters in height, using the dou-gong (斗拱) bracket system. The ceiling is adorned with vibrant patterns, including the Taiji (太极图), heavenly kings, and dragons and phoenixes, showcasing architectural styles from Han, Tibetan, and Naxi cultures, making it a rare treasure of ancient Chinese architecture.
Today, the Five-Phoenix Tower stands majestically at the foot of Elephant Mountain (象山), in the northwest corner of Black Dragon Pool, adding a new scenic element to the area. The tower has a nearly square layout, measuring 18.9 meters in width and 17.78 meters in depth, covering an area of 256 square meters. With its unique shape, intricate carvings, and colorful paintings, the tower embodies the cultural characteristics of the Naxi (纳西), Bai (白), and Tibetan (藏) ethnic groups, enjoying a strong reputation both nationally and internationally. On January 13, 1983, it was listed as a provincial cultural relic protection unit by the Yunnan provincial government.
The Five-Phoenix Tower is accessible from Lijiang Old Town (丽江古城) by a short drive or a leisurely walk through Black Dragon Pool Park. Public transportation options, including buses and taxis, are available.
Yuzhu Qingtian Scenic Area (玉柱擎天风景区) is located on the southern slopes of Yulong Snow Mountain (玉龙雪山), in an area often referred to as the first village under Yulong Mountain—Wulukeng (巫鲁肯, Baisha Yuhu Village). It is situated approximately ten miles from the ancient city of Lijiang. With an elevation of about 2,800 meters, the area boasts several attractions, including:
Yuzhu Qingtian Scenic Area is historically known as the summer palace for local Naxi (纳西) chieftains. The area combines stunning natural features such as snow-capped mountains, crystal-clear lakes, and rock carvings, with rich cultural elements, including Dongba (东巴) culture, Tibetan Buddhism, and diverse ethnic customs. The well-established transportation facilities and high-quality services make it a vital window into the experience of Lijiang, providing a peaceful sanctuary for the soul.
Since the Ming Dynasty (明代), this area has served as a summer retreat for Naxi chieftains. It became a meeting place for local literati and scholars, symbolizing the Naxi’s respect for and integration of various cultures.
During the reign of the Yongzheng Emperor in the Qing Dynasty (清朝), the first official of Lijiang inscribed the characters “Yuzhu Qingtian” (玉柱擎天) on a cliff, marking it as the earliest Han Chinese rock carving in Lijiang. The adjacent characters “Yubi Jinchuan” (玉壁金川) were inscribed by the Lijiang district magistrate Nie Rui in 1725. These carvings, though weathered by time, remain partially legible and illustrate the fusion of nature and human creativity, reflecting the ancient craftsmanship that continues to amaze contemporary visitors.
Wulukeng, meaning “under the silver mountain” in Naxi, is known as the first village at the foot of Yulong Mountain. The mural scroll in Yixian Tower (逸仙楼), created by Naxi artist Zhao Youheng in the 1960s, consists of nine panels that vividly depict the harmonious coexistence of ancient Naxi ancestors with nature. The panels illustrate:
On a cliff about 30 meters high, the inscription “Yuzhu Qingtian” was carved in 1724 by the first official of Lijiang, Yang. Beneath it is the inscription “Yubi Jinchuan,” also notable for its historical significance, directly linked to the important historical event known as “Reform of Land System” (改土归流). These inscriptions stand as testament to the grandeur of Yulong Snow Mountain and the cultural history of the area.
The combination of snow-capped mountains, lakes, springs, and ancient towns creates a harmonious atmosphere where the summer palace of chieftains, Dongba shrines, and Buddhist relics coexist, offering a serene haven for the soul—a true Eden inhabited by celestial beings.
To reach Yuzhu Qingtian Scenic Area from Lijiang:
Guanyin Valley (观音峡景区), known as the gateway to Yulong Pass (玉龙关), is one of the six major passes in the Lijiang Basin. It is famously referred to as “the first scenic spot in Lijiang.” This area is characterized by its stunning natural landscapes, including mountains, canyons, forests, and lakes, intertwined with cultural elements like the ancient tea horse road, Naxi (纳西) villages, and various folk customs and religious practices. The phrase, “漫漫雄关邱塘道,悠悠茶马滇藏情,” encapsulates the essence of Guanyin Valley, which is historically significant as the first perilous fortress on the Tea Horse Road (茶马古道) between Yunnan (云南) and Tibet (藏).
Historically, Xu Xiake (徐霞客), a famous Chinese traveler, described Qiu Tang Pass (邱塘关) as “the key to Lijiang,” symbolizing its importance as an entry point into the region.
Strategically located along the main routes to Tibet (藏), Nujiang (怒江), and Bashu (巴蜀), Guanyin Valley serves as a major transit hub for trade, making it a critical checkpoint for merchants. The area once saw the establishment of the Mu Family Courtyard (木家别院) by the legendary figure Mu Wangye (木王爷), reflecting its historical significance in safeguarding trade routes.
The scenic area is divided into several zones, each offering unique experiences that highlight both natural beauty and cultural richness.
Visitors can ride an electric slide that runs through the canyon, offering both excitement and stunning views. The slide is approximately 1200 meters long with a vertical drop of over 30 meters, allowing for an engaging experience.
To access Guanyin Valley from Lijiang Old Town, it typically takes about 30 minutes by taxi or through local tour services. The journey begins at the “Tea Horse Road Point,” a historical pathway that facilitated trade through the use of horse caravans, thriving particularly during the Tang (唐) and Song (宋) dynasties.
Once you pass through Mu Family Bridge (木家桥), you’ll arrive at the Mu Family Courtyard, a splendid example of Naxi architecture, featuring multiple courtyards and intricate details. Walking along Tea Horse Street (茶马古街), you’ll encounter many traditional workshops and shops that reflect the historical significance of this trade route.
As you proceed, you’ll see the unique Tianxiang Tower, a Naxi sacrificial tower, and the Xu Xiake Pavilion, highlighting the area’s rich cultural heritage. The vibrant markets, surrounded by lush greenery and fragrant wildflowers, create a picturesque environment, with willows gracefully reflected in tranquil lakes.
To reach Guanyin Valley from Lijiang Old Town:
Guanyin Valley offers an enchanting combination of natural beauty and rich cultural heritage, making it a captivating destination in Yunnan Province.
Dongba Kingdom (东巴王国) is located at the foot of Yulong Snow Mountain (玉龙雪山) in Lijiang (丽江), Yunnan Province (云南省), approximately 12 kilometers from the ancient city of Lijiang. It is one of the main attractions in the Lijiang Dayu Long Tourist Area (丽江大玉龙旅游景区) and covers an expansive area of 160 acres. The purpose of Dongba Kingdom is to inherit and promote the Naxi Dongba culture (纳西东巴文化), vividly showcasing a theme of respecting nature and harmonious development with the environment.
The scenic area consists of two main parts: Dongba culture (东巴文化) and ancient Naxi (纳西) ancestral villages. It is subdivided into smaller sections, each offering unique insights into Naxi heritage and spirituality:
Lijiang has been a beautiful and peaceful place since ancient times, known for its multicultural environment. Over a thousand years ago, the Naxi people, living near the Jinsha River (金沙江) within the Hengduan Mountains (横断山脉), created a unique and mystical pictographic writing system known as Dongba characters. This system records the natural world and human existence and is recognized as a “living fossil of writing.” Remarkably, this ancient and mysterious symbol has been preserved and continues to be used today.
The Dongba religion (东巴教), the original faith of the Naxi people, has no formal doctrines or unified organization. The priests who conduct religious ceremonies are known as “Dongba,” meaning “wise ones who perform divinations and recite scriptures.” They serve as the main disseminators of Naxi culture, performing rituals for various life events and ceremonies.
Dongba Kingdom symbolizes the Naxi people’s cultural protection and development, allowing ancient traditions to thrive in nature, illustrating the spiritual and cultural richness of the Naxi community.
Dongba Kingdom covers 160 acres and is divided into five main sections, each rich in cultural significance:
Walking into Dongba Kingdom feels like stepping back in time, with culture, knowledge, customs, and religion vividly displayed. The revival of ancient culture and the diversity of religious beliefs highlight the depth of Dongba’s historical significance.
To reach Dongba Kingdom from Lijiang’s Old Town, you can take a taxi, which takes about 30 minutes, or opt for a local tour service. Buses are available as a budget-friendly transportation option, with regular routes running between Lijiang and the scenic area.
With its rich cultural heritage and stunning natural surroundings, Dongba Kingdom offers a unique experience that connects visitors with the ancient traditions of the Naxi people, making it a must-visit destination in Yunnan Province.
Sifang Street (四方街) is located in the center of Lijiang Old Town (丽江古城), with convenient transportation and tranquil alleys surrounding it. It is said to have been built during the Ming Dynasty (明代) by the Mu clan (木氏) according to the shape of its seal. This area serves as the most important hub on the Ancient Tea Horse Road (茶马古道). Since the Ming and Qing dynasties (明清), merchants from various regions have gathered here, making it a center for cultural exchange among different ethnic groups in Lijiang (丽江).
Sifang Street is famous for its unique streetscape, featuring colorful stone pavements, clear water washing the streets, bustling markets during the day, and the vibrant scene of cleaning in the evening. Six colorful stone streets radiate outwards from the square, connecting various alleys and making transportation exceptionally convenient.
Located in the ancient area of Lijiang City, Sifang Street showcases numerous historical relics and a rich cultural heritage, making it one of the best-preserved and most ethnically distinctive ancient towns in China. In 1986, it was recognized as a Historical and Cultural City by the State Council, and in 1997, it was officially included in the UNESCO World Heritage List, becoming one of the first world cultural heritage cities in China with a shared responsibility for protection.
Sifang Street serves as the heart of the old town, bustling with trade and cultural exchange. The area is characterized by traditional architecture with features from the Ming and Qing dynasties.
The deep alleys of Sifang Street allow people to enter the city from various directions through streets, paths, and even narrow mountain trails. Lijiang is a city in harmony with flowing water, similar to Venice; however, the waterways in Dayan Town (大研镇) are artificially designed. The original river, Zhonghe River (中河), runs through the town and has been developed into the Western River (西河) and Eastern River (东河), branching out like the trunk and branches of a tree. Residents can even drink this spring water directly.
Sifang Street is designed as a trapezoidal square, slightly elevated in the center with lower sides, resembling a large tile.
A river is located to the west of the square, featuring a sluice gate. Every evening, when the market closes, residents close the sluice gate, causing the water level to rise and flow over the square according to the sloped tile shape, draining into the surrounding sewage ditches. Each side of the square has a 30 cm wide and 45 cm deep sewage ditch, connecting to the drainage system of the surrounding courtyards, forming a complete sewage system that keeps Sifang Street clean.
Sifang Street, covering approximately 6 acres, resembles a square seal of a governor, hence its name. It serves as a major gathering place for people and goods, a hub for trade and commerce, showcasing the vibrant life of Lijiang.
The unique streetscape features colorful stone pavements and clean water washing the streets. Surrounded by six colorful flower stone streets, Sifang Street is a vital center for Lijiang’s economy and culture, echoing the grandeur of the “Qingming Shanghe Tu” (清明上河图).
The old town still retains much of its Ming and Qing architectural features, with traditional houses featuring intricate carvings of flowers, birds, and animals. The residents have a love for planting flowers and nurturing bonsai, earning Lijiang the nickname “A City Where Flowers Bloom Everywhere” (丽郡从来喜植树,山城无处不飞花).
At night, Sifang Street is enveloped in a warm, peaceful atmosphere. Reflections of red lanterns sway in the river, creating a picturesque scene. The area is the center of trade and social activity, bustling with people. The main streets extend from Sifang Street in all directions, branching off into various alleys, creating a web of pathways.
Historically, Sifang Street has been a marketplace. Lijiang Old Town was established in the late Song Dynasty (宋末) and the early Yuan Dynasty (元初), showcasing a harmonious coexistence of Han (汉), Naxi (纳西), Tibetan (藏), Bai (白), and other ethnic groups. In December 1997, Lijiang Old Town was added to the World Heritage List, filling the gap of no historical cultural cities in China’s heritage.
Over the past decade, Lijiang’s efforts to protect its heritage while promoting tourism have garnered attention from UNESCO, illustrating a new approach to the common challenges faced in cultural heritage preservation worldwide. However, rapid tourism development has led to the out-migration of local residents, a clash of traditional cultures, and environmental changes. The city continues to seek a delicate balance between protection and utilization amidst ongoing discussions of “overdevelopment” and “excessive commercialization.”
Sifang Street is also known for its street food, with dozens of small restaurants offering a variety of Yunnan-style rice noodles, making it famously known as “Lijiang Rice Noodle Street” (丽江米线街).
Yongning Hot Spring is a highland hot spring located 10 kilometers north of Yongning Township (永宁乡) by Lugu Lake (泸沽湖) in Lijiang, Yunnan Province (云南省). The local Mosuo (摩梭人) people refer to it as “Re Shui Tang” (热水塘), meaning “hot water pond.” Historically, the water was extremely hot, capable of boiling eggs and scalding pigs. Over time, the temperature stabilized at around 37°C, making it suitable for bathing. The spring contains hydrogen sulfide, which has therapeutic effects for rheumatic arthritis and certain skin conditions.
The spring water emerges from crevices at the foot of Wadu Mountain (挖都山), crystal clear and steaming year-round. It features a natural pond of over 50 square meters. During agricultural off-seasons, nearby Mosuo and Pumi (普米族) residents flock to the spring to bathe and enjoy picnics, often accompanied by singing and dancing. This location also serves as a meeting point for Mosuo couples.
In recent years, facilities such as separate bathing areas for men and women, as well as lodges and shops, have been constructed nearby. The road from Yongning Township to the hot spring is conveniently accessible, offering scenic views of Mosuo villages and the lush landscapes of Yongning Basin (永宁坝), rich in ethnic culture and breathtaking highland scenery.
Interestingly, in the last century, Yongning Hot Spring was relatively isolated from external influences, leading to a pure and innocent way of life. People bathed communally in the open pond without concern for passersby, regardless of gender, sharing food and drink in a harmonious and traditional manner. However, with the opening of the region and the influx of diverse cultural influences, the simplicity of these customs has diminished.
Today, in response to increased attention, the pond has been divided with barriers to prevent inappropriate behavior, a stark change from its past. This division, initiated in the 1960s, has evolved over the years, eventually enclosing the pond entirely. The historical and cultural significance of Yongning Hot Spring has become a point of reflection for modern visitors, evoking admiration and nostalgia for its earlier days of cultural unity and simplicity.
Surrounding the hot spring are several well-preserved Mosuo villages, including Walabi (瓦拉比), Yimanwa (依满瓦), Aruwa (阿汝瓦), and Aguwa (阿古瓦), contributing to the relaxing and culturally immersive experience that visitors seek.
To visit Yongning Hot Spring and experience the highland spa, you can hire a car from Lugu Lake. Departing from the LiGe Peninsula (里格半岛), it takes approximately 40 minutes to reach Yongning Hot Spring Village, passing by Gemu Mountain (格姆山), which resembles a lion, and Zha Mei Temple (扎美寺).
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Judian Old Town巨甸古镇 is located in Judian Town (巨甸镇), Yulong Naxi Autonomous County (玉龙纳西族自治县), Lijiang. It was once the center of Naxi (纳西族) civilization before the Yuan Dynasty, known as Judin (巨津), meaning “great ferry crossing.” At that time, it was not only a vital route connecting Weixi (维西) to the inland but also a significant crossing for trade between Dali (大理) and Tibet (吐蕃).
Today, you can find ferryboats on the river at the eastern edge of the town, allowing visitors to enjoy the river views. Additionally, Judian hosts a lively market. The 5th day of each month marks a significant market day, where people from various ethnic groups, including Tibetans, Lisu (傈僳族), Bai (白族), Yi (彝族), and Pumi (普米族), gather on the streets to sell local specialties and purchase daily necessities. If you visit during a festival, you will notice the rich cultural influences in their music and dance, showcasing the diverse artistic traditions that characterize the area.
Judian has a rich history that dates back to the Yuan and Ming Dynasties, when it was under the jurisdiction of the Lijiang Military and Civilian Administration, known as Judin Prefecture. During the Qing Dynasty, it was part of the Lijiang Prefecture. In the Republic of China period, it was known as Judian Li (巨甸里) within Lijiang County.
The poem “Flower Horse Ancient Country Judin Prefecture” (花马古国巨津州) by the local chieftain, Mu Gao (木高土司), indicates the close relationship between Judian and the Flower Horse Ancient Country, which is another name for Lijiang due to its famous Lijiang horses. Judian was historically a center for Naxi civilization, and today, visitors can still see ferryboats on the river and explore the town’s market.
Judian Town is located in the northwestern part of Yulong Naxi Autonomous County, with the Jinsha River (金沙江) separating it from Shangjiang Township (上江乡) in Diqing Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture (迪庆藏族自治州) to the east. It borders Lizhuang Lisu Township (黎明傈僳族乡) to the south, Ludian Township (鲁甸乡) to the west, and Tacheng Township (塔城乡) to the north. The total area is 407.6 square kilometers, with a registered population of 21,372 as of the end of 2019.
Dadingge Pavilion is located to the northeast of Dabaoji Palace (大宝积宫) and faces west. Originally comprising several courtyards, it now consists of a single courtyard, adorned with 17 murals covering an area of 69.96 square meters. The pavilion is distinctive for its embedded decorative stones, a unique feature of ancient architecture in Lijiang (丽江).
According to the “Lijiang Prefectural Gazetteer” (光绪《丽江府志》), Dadingge Pavilion was built by local chieftain Mu Zeng during the Ming Dynasty. The pavilion’s name is inscribed with the characters “大定,” showcasing vigorous calligraphy. The structure is surrounded by copper railings and embedded with decorative stones, demonstrating exquisite craftsmanship. After a collapse, it was restored in the 8th year of the Qianlong era (乾隆) and has retained its original character.
Dadingge Pavilion has a single-eaved gable roof and a courtyard layout. The entrance features a gate leading to a charming courtyard, flanked by low corridors on either side. The surrounding mountains provide a stunning backdrop that complements the pavilion’s elegant design. In front of the pavilion stand elaborately carved stone pillars resembling ornamental columns.
The pavilion measures 6.86 meters in width, 5.25 meters in depth, and 5.2 meters in height. Each side contains three rooms, with partitioned sections created by decorative screens. The front serves as a corridor, the middle as a worship area, and the back as a place for Buddha statues. The lower eaves lack brackets, while the upper eaves showcase intricate carvings, including seven steps and three upward-curving brackets. The walls are adorned with decorative stones, a hallmark of Lijiang’s ancient architectural style.
The Dadingge Murals are situated in Baisha Old Town, approximately 8 kilometers northwest of Lijiang City. This region serves as a crucial route connecting Yunnan (云南) with Sichuan (四川) and Tibet (西藏). The murals in Dadingge Pavilion are considered the most artistically valuable and extensive religious murals in Yunnan.
Constructed during the leadership of local chieftain Mu Zeng from the 26th year of the Wanli era (1598) to the 3rd year of the Tianqi era (1623), the pavilion underwent repairs during the Qianlong era (清乾隆年间). The murals were created during the same period as the pavilion, with a few later additions from the Qing Dynasty. Originally consisting of eighteen murals, only seven have survived in good condition, located on the east, south, and north walls of the main hall; the murals on the side halls have significantly deteriorated.
The walls of the main hall depict various scenes, including the Happy Buddha (欢喜佛), characterized by flowing lines and concise brushwork, reflecting the typical Thangka style from the Tibetan Plateau, infused with rich folk elements. The murals in the north and south corridors portray the Water Moon Avalokiteshvara (水月观音) along with other Buddhist figures such as Manjushri (文殊), Samantabhadra (普贤), and Mahasthamaprapta (大势至), framed by serene water and cloud motifs, creating a harmonious landscape scene.
On the east wall of the main hall, the murals feature various deities from Tibetan Buddhism, including Vajrapani (胜乐金刚), Kalachakra (时轮金刚), and the Happy Vajra (喜金刚), all depicted embracing their wisdom partners. The north and south walls showcase Avalokiteshvara, Manjushri, Samantabhadra, and Mahasthamaprapta, each set in tranquil natural surroundings, forming exquisite individual scenes.
Dabaoji Palace is a historic site located in Baisha Old Town, approximately 8 kilometers north of Lijiang City. Constructed in the 10th year of the Wanli era (1582) during the Ming Dynasty (明朝), the palace features a double-eaved gable roof and is laid out in a square format. Its numerous murals, painted from the early Ming to the early Qing Dynasties, have persisted for over 300 years. The Baisha Murals (白沙壁画) represent a unique synthesis of Han (汉), Tibetan (藏), and Naxi (纳西) cultures, showcasing various religious and artistic influences, making them invaluable cultural relics.
Dabaoji Palace faces east and was built in the 10th year of the Wanli era (1582). The palace houses 12 murals, which are the largest and best-preserved in Lijiang. Covering a total area of 61.48 square meters, the most significant mural, titled “The Buddha Giving Teachings” (如来讲经图), measures 3.67 meters high and 4.98 meters wide. The central figure is the Buddha in red robes, seated majestically with 18 disciples depicted above him, while the Four Heavenly Kings are illustrated on either side.
These murals intricately combine figures from Buddhism, Daoism, and Lamaism, reflecting meticulous craftsmanship characterized by delicate lines and an amalgamation of traditional techniques from various ethnic groups, including Han, Tibetan, Naxi, and Bai. In 1996, the palace was designated as a national key cultural relic protection unit, making it an essential resource for the study of ethnic and art history.
The architectural features of Dabaoji Palace are impressive, with thick columns and beams contributing to its grandeur. Inside the hall, there are 16 murals that span the Ming Yongle period (明永乐年间) to the late Qing Dynasty. The early murals display simplicity in style, while the later works are noted for their bold and rugged lines. The most renowned of these is the Baisha mural, “The Buddha Giving Teachings,” which depicts a variety of activities and stories from Tibetan Buddhism, Han Buddhism, and Daoism, featuring over 100 characters with intricate details and vivid colors. This mural is distinguished by its unification of multiple religious themes and the blending of diverse traditional painting techniques, making it a unique treasure.
The Dabaoji Murals are integral to the murals found in the Mushi Tufu Temple (木氏土府庙宇) in Lijiang, located on Baisha Street (白沙街). Constructed in the 2nd year of the Jiajing era (1523) during the Ming Dynasty, these murals add significant value to the overall importance of Dabaoji Palace.
The murals contain themes such as the Peacock King (孔雀明王) and ritual scenes, as well as elements from esoteric Buddhism and Daoism, demonstrating a rich artistic fusion of Han and Tibetan styles. A total of 12 murals make up this collection, rendering it the most representative and well-preserved site for murals in Lijiang.
Dabaoji Palace is situated 8 kilometers north of Lijiang City on Baisha Street. The Glazed Tile Hall (琉璃殿), facing east, was built in the 15th year of the Yongle era (1417), featuring a double-eaved gable roof and a square layout. The murals inside date from the Ming Yongle period to the late Qing Dynasty, showcasing both early and later artistic styles.
The Golden Pagoda Temple (金塔寺) is a folk temple that was originally built during the Tang Dynasty. It has undergone numerous reconstructions during the Ming and Qing Dynasties. The scenic area covers an area of 109.2 acres, with more than 40% of it designated as green space. It features several key attractions, including the statue of Master Lotus (莲花大师法像), the Guanyin Hall (观音殿), the Hall of Thousand Buddhas and Ten Thousand Lamps (千佛万灯殿), the Ashoka Pillar (阿育王柱), the Maitreya Buddha (弥勒佛), and the Great Hall of 81 Wealth Gods (合18路81尊财神坛城大殿).
The iconic East Treasure Victorious Tower is a stupa personally authorized by the Buddha and is the only golden stupa in Chinese Tibetan Buddhism. The tranquil and beautiful tower can only be witnessed by the Bodhisattva on Earth; ordinary people cannot see it. It is said that during the years the tower was destroyed, natural disasters were frequent, and human calamities were incessant. Villagers near the old site of the tower are aware that those who destroyed it met with terrible fates, suffering from sickness and disasters in subsequent generations. Those who took the tower’s bricks home also faced misfortune. After the tower was rebuilt, rain fell all around it, yet the tower itself remained illuminated by sunshine.
The Victorious Tower stands proudly atop Snake Mountain (蛇山), bringing favorable weather, prosperous livestock, abundant harvests, cultural flourishing, and the emergence of distinguished individuals, all contributing to the well-being of the people.
The Golden Pagoda Temple is strategically located about 4.5 kilometers from the ancient city of Lijiang, near Lijiang Airport, Lijiang Railway Station, the Dali Highway (Airport Expressway), and the southern bypass of Lijiang, providing convenient transportation. It is a landmark site on the tourism route connecting Lijiang, Dali, and Shangri-La.
The Heavenly Kings Hall is dedicated to the Four Heavenly Kings: the Eastern Guardian King (东方持国天王) holding a pipa, the Southern Growth King (南方增长天王) wielding a sword, the Western Wide-Eyed King (西方广目天王) entwined in a red dragon, and the Northern Many-Listen King (北方多闻天王) holding a precious umbrella. Each represents various virtues: responsibility, wisdom, impermanence, and protection against worldly pollutants.
The prayer wheel, also known as the “Mani Prayer Wheel” (嘛呢转经筒), is inscribed with the six-syllable mantra “Om Mani Padme Hum” (嗡嘛呢呗咪吽). Inside the wheel is a scroll containing the mantra, and spinning the wheel symbolizes reciting it a thousand times. Tibetan Buddhism teaches that the more one recites this mantra, the greater the merits and benefits gained, potentially leading to liberation from the cycle of rebirth.
Maitreya Buddha is known as the Future Buddha. His golden body symbolizes wealth and joy. A verse describes him as follows: “开口便笑,笑古笑今,凡事付之一笑; 大肚能容,容天容地,于人何所不容。”
Guanyin Hall, representing Han Chinese Buddhism, is dedicated to the Great Compassionate Guanyin Bodhisattva. Statues of Master Xu Yun (虚云大师) and Elder Ben Huan (本焕长老) flank the hall. The interior walls are painted with various forms of Guanyin, signifying her responsiveness to the needs of sentient beings. Master Xu Yun and Elder Ben Huan significantly contributed to the deep exchange between Han and Tibetan Buddhism.
The Hall of Thousand Buddhas and Ten Thousand Lamps is the most characteristic structure in the scenic area, housing a thousand Buddha statues and ten thousand lamps. Buddha once said, “如染香人,身有香气.” Offering three lamps to the Buddha symbolizes dedication to the Three Jewels (Buddha, Dharma, Sangha), enhancing moral discipline, meditation, and wisdom, while eliminating greed, anger, and ignorance.
Master Padmasambhava is a principal figure in esoteric Buddhism. His statue, imported from Myanmar, is carved from a single block of white jade, weighing 200,000 kg and valued at over 11 million yuan. He is known for his mastery of both “spiritual techniques” and “mantras,” symbolizing great wisdom and the ability to conquer desire, anger, and ignorance.
The White Elephant Treasure, one of Tibetan Buddhism’s seven treasures, symbolizes good fortune and wealth. In ancient India, elephants were essential transport animals, representing Buddhist treasures. The White Stupa houses relics and treasures, showcasing the typical architectural structure of Tibetan Buddhism, which comprises 108 parts, symbolizing the completion of Buddhist teachings.
Under a starry sky, the Golden Pagoda majestically stands atop Snake Mountain, illuminated by moonlight and artificial lights. From a distance, it resembles translucent glass, illuminating the entire Lijiang area and guarding the good people with blessings of peace and prosperity.
The Ashoka Pillar, made of granite and standing 13 meters tall, is valued at over 7 million yuan. It contains Buddhist scriptures inscribed on its surface, specifically the “Heart Sutra” (般若波罗密多心经), which encapsulates the essence of the Prajna teachings in just 260 words. It is said that King Ashoka, influenced by Buddhism, erected lion statues on four-sided pillars wherever Buddhism spread, known as the “Ashoka Pillars.”
The East Treasure Victorious Tower (Golden Pagoda) was founded based on the teachings of the Buddha Shakyamuni (释迦摩尼佛) around 2500 years ago. Initially built during the Tang Dynasty, it underwent numerous reconstructions during the Ming and Qing Dynasties. In 2004, under the blessing of the 17th Karmapa, the stupa was rebuilt atop Snake Mountain, making it the fourth documented restoration. The construction required 208 kg of gold, rendering it splendid and radiant.
The first floor of the tower houses the Lotus Master’s stupa, featuring 81 Wealth Gods, embodying the cultural essence of Confucianism, Buddhism, and Taoism. The second floor enshrines the fifth Karmapa’s golden statue and numerous precious scriptures and treasures, serving to bless all sentient beings.
The Golden Pagoda Temple is easily accessible by various means of transportation. If you are arriving by air, the Lijiang Airport (丽江机场) is the nearest airport, located about 30 minutes away by car. The Lijiang Railway Station (丽江火车站) is also nearby, providing convenient train services. You can take the Dali Highway (大丽公路) or the southern bypass road to reach the scenic area. Local taxis and ride-sharing services are available for a hassle-free journey.
Guanyin Pavilion (观音阁) is located in Lingyuanqing Valley (灵源箐) in Yongsheng County (永胜县), approximately 3 kilometers east of the county seat of Lijiang (丽江). Named for the stone-carved image of Guanyin (观音) created by the Tang dynasty artist Wu Daotzu (吴道子), this pavilion was originally constructed during the Tang Zhenguan period (唐贞观年间). The main hall has been destroyed by wars and was rebuilt on its original site during the second year of the Qing Guangxu period (光绪二年, 1876).
The architectural style features a multi-eaved hip roof with a wooden structure, facing west towards the east. The complex comprises a mountain gate, main hall, “Heaven Pavilion” (天观), “Earth Burial” (地葬), and other smaller pavilions. Inside, there is an inscription stone commemorating the temple’s establishment and inscriptions by figures such as Zhao Fan (赵藩) on the walls. The area is surrounded by dense ancient trees and picturesque scenery.
The Guanyin Pavilion, also known as Lingyuanqing Guanyin Pavilion (灵源箐观音阁), is situated at the northern foot of Hu Mountain (壶山), near the banks of the Guanping River (关坪河) in the eastern outskirts of Yongsheng County (永胜县), at coordinates 100°46′1.875″E, 26°41′39″N, with an elevation of 2,225 meters.
The Guanyin Pavilion was once destroyed by fire during warfare but has been restored throughout various dynasties. The current structure is a result of the restoration completed in the second year of the Qing Guangxu period (光绪二年, 1876). The total height from the stone steps to the ridge of the roof is approximately 9.2 meters.
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Nizai Village (尼赛村) is a small Mosuo (摩梭族) natural village located by the scenic Lugu Lake (泸沽湖). Though it comprises only a few dozen households, the village is tranquil and boasts stunning views. The famous Lover’s Tree (情人树), a popular spot for visitors to take romantic photographs, is situated here. Many travelers stop by Nizai Village while touring around Lugu Lake, capturing the enchanting scenery of the Lover’s Tree. Additionally, the village serves as a boarding point for the cable car to Gemu Goddess Mountain (格姆女神山), allowing visitors to explore the mountain. Nizai Village also offers accommodations and dining options, making it a perfect place to stay overnight. Under a sky filled with stars, the Gemu Goddess peacefully rests near the village, and the Lover’s Tree quietly leans against the serene lakeside, creating a romantic atmosphere. In the early morning, the sun rises over the lake, gradually illuminating the world and immersing visitors in breathtaking beauty.
A few Mosuo people lie on the grass, fully relaxed to embrace the Earth’s caress; several sheep and cows are loosely tethered to small wooden stakes on the meadow. As dusk descends, the lake water gently lapping against the pig trough boats (猪槽船) sets a calming ambiance. Listening to the sound of the waves brings a sense of tranquility, allowing one to fully enjoy the peaceful night. The starry sky and the vast universe silently observe the world below, deepening the sense of mystery and serenity, making the vast world seem suspended in time.
Nizai Village is one of the most primitive villages in Yunnan (云南) that still retains the tradition of “walking marriage” (走婚). When I first heard the term “walking marriage,” I didn’t quite understand it, even misinterpreting its meaning at first. However, as I delved deeper into my studies, I began to find it amusing when encountering the term again. Gradually, I pondered whether such customs still exist in modern China, or if any places still practice “walking marriage.” After some research, I discovered a place where this tradition has been preserved — the Mosuo people living around Lugu Lake (泸沽湖) in Lijiang (丽江). They have maintained the tradition of walking marriage for many years. Today, I will share with you my findings about Mosuo walking marriage culture, using Nizai Village as an example.
We all know that Yunnan is a mountainous and watery region. At the edge of Gemu Goddess Mountain (格姆女神山) and Lugu Lake, lies Nizai Village. This village is small, with a population that has never exceeded 100 over the years. It is one of the most primitive villages in Yunnan. If you wish to gain a deeper understanding of Mosuo walking marriage culture, visiting Nizai Village is an excellent choice.
The Mosuo (摩梭族) are a branch of the Naxi (纳西族) ethnic group, primarily residing in the northwestern part of Yunnan Province, near the Sichuan Province border by Lugu Lake. In Mosuo culture, women are regarded as the “backbone” of the family, which is why the Mosuo are often referred to as the “Kingdom of Daughters” (女儿国). Although not entirely composed of women, the proportion of women far exceeds that of men. As mentioned earlier, their marriages follow the “walking marriage” tradition.
What is walking marriage? In simple terms, it is a system where women take the lead. If a couple has a girl, the man and woman can form a family. However, if they have a boy, the man has no rights. This is contrary to the traditional patriarchal values.
Walking marriage is a unique marital system that has developed in the matrilineal society of the Mosuo people. In Nizai Village, men and women rarely communicate face-to-face; they only convey their feelings during banquets and gatherings. When a man and woman are interested in each other, the man must go to the “Flower Building” (花楼). He cannot enter through the front door but must climb in through a window. During the walking marriage ceremony, some tokens are hung outside the Flower Building to prevent interference from others.
In Nizai Village, children are raised by their mothers. Couples only conduct the walking marriage ceremony if they are emotionally compatible. The famous Lover’s Tree in Nizai Village symbolizes that not just anyone can participate in walking marriage; it requires genuine affection.
To visit Nizai Village, it is advisable to start from Kunming (昆明) and make a circuit around Lugu Lake (泸沽湖), then ascend Gemu Mountain (格姆山) to reach Nizai Village. The elevation here is relatively high, so preparation is essential. The cable car is a great transport option in the mountainous area, where ordinary vehicles may struggle to navigate.
If you have the opportunity to explore Yunnan, whether it’s the beautiful Lugu Lake or Nizai Village, I hope you can experience the unique culture and charm of the Mosuo people up close.
To reach Nizai Village, you can travel from Lijiang (丽江) by bus or private vehicle, which typically takes around 2 to 3 hours. If you’re coming from Kunming (昆明), consider taking a flight or train to Lijiang first and then continuing your journey to Nizai Village.
Nisai Village (尼赛村), located near Lugu Lake (泸沽湖) in Lijiang, Yunnan Province, is a picturesque and culturally rich destination. Here’s an overview:
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Guanyin Pavilion (观音阁) is located in Lingyuanqing Valley (灵源箐) in Yongsheng County (永胜县), approximately 3 kilometers east of the county seat of Lijiang (丽江). Named for the stone-carved image...
Nizai Village (尼赛村) is a small Mosuo (摩梭族) natural village located by the scenic Lugu Lake (泸沽湖). Though it comprises only a few dozen households, the village is tranquil...
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