Li Dongmei - Inheritor of Mili Ethnic Costume-making Skill in Yongde County, Lincang

Li Dongmei (李冬妹) is one of Yunnan Province’s first batch of provincial-level intangible cultural heritage (ICH) representative inheritors, and a key guardian of Yi (Limi branch) traditional costume making. Born on November 2, 1961, in Yanzi-jiao Village (岩子脚村), Wumulong Township (乌木龙乡), Yongde County (永德县), Lincang City (临沧市), Yunnan Province (云南省), she grew up immersed in ethnic cultural traditions, through which she self-taught the complete traditional process of costume making.

As a custodian of the “Black-Clothed Tribe” (黑衣部落) culture, Li Dongmei is proficient in spinning, weaving, indigo dyeing, embroidery, and tailoring. Through mentoring apprentices and participating in ICH exhibitions, she has revitalized this ancient craft for contemporary society. Her dedication preserves the cultural gene of the Limi Yi people while contributing to rural revitalization.

I. Personal Background

• Name: Li Dongmei (李冬妹)

• Gender: Female

• Ethnicity: Yi (Limi branch, 俐米人)

• Date of Birth: November 2, 1961

• Hometown: Yanzi-jiao Village, Wumulong Township, Yongde County, Lincang City, Yunnan Province

Local Context

• The Limi Yi (俐米人) are a branch of the Yi people, mainly distributed across Yongde, Fengqing, and Yun counties, with Wumulong Township in Yongde County being the most concentrated area.

• Nicknamed the “Black-Clothed Tribe”, their settlements are named for their distinctive black garments.

• Wumulong Township is 97 km northeast of Yongde County seat, at an altitude of 2,100 m, characterized by high mountains, deep valleys, poor transportation, and relative isolation. These factors helped preserve the traditional costume-making craft over centuries.

II. Learning and Transmission

Li Dongmei’s learning path follows a self-taught (“no formal master”) model:

1. Early exposure: From age 7–8, influenced by the ethnic environment, she developed a strong interest in Limi Yi costume making.

2. Self-practice: Without formal schooling or apprenticeship, she learned through observation and assistance from skilled local women.

3. Skill mastery: Years of practice enabled her to master spinning, weaving, dyeing, embroidery, and tailoring.

4. Recognition: Became a highly respected local master capable of making costumes for all ages and genders.

This “environmental exposure + self-practice” approach typifies the transmission of traditional Limi Yi skills and demonstrates the adaptability of minority cultural heritage.

III. Craft Characteristics

Basic Features

Costume-Making Process

1. Spinning & weaving:

   • Corn-based preparatory treatment, spun into warp threads, woven on traditional wooden looms, producing fabric ~25 cm wide and tens of meters long.

2. Indigo dyeing:

   • Two types: dyeing plain white cloth and patterned cloth.

   • Uses indigo leaves and local plant additives.

   • Requires 7–8 rounds of dyeing and color fixing with tree bark and rice water.

3. Embroidery:

   • Applied on black or dark blue fabric using colorful threads (red, yellow, blue, green, purple).

   • Patterns are mainly geometric: diamonds, squares, triangles; some natural motifs.

4. Tailoring:

   • Includes preparing decorative strips (2 cm wide) in various colors for edges, sleeves, skirts, and pants.

   • Garments cut straight or crosswise and sewn by hand.

Costume Types

• Men’s Clothing: Simple indigo black garments, long black headwrap (~7 m), circular or straight-collar shirts, black/blue belts, long pants, straw shoes.

• Women’s Clothing: Black-dominant, divided into daily and festive wear; includes headwraps, layered shirts, decorative belts, embroidered sleeves, tube pants, and skirts.

• Bridal Attire: Luxurious, colorful, with silver ornaments and intricate embroidery; a single set may take two years to complete.

• Children’s Clothing: White long shirts for toddlers; boys wear caps, girls wear small beaded hats or headscarves.

IV. Contributions and Impact

• Mentorship: Trained over a dozen apprentices, passing on the complete craft.

• Exhibitions: Participated in cultural events such as the “Cultural & Natural Heritage Day” in Yongde County (June 17, 2020), demonstrating costume making live.

• Cultural Transmission: Produced hundreds of costumes for local women, ensuring continuity of tradition.

• Rural Revitalization:

  • Supported by government subsidies (8,000 CNY/year) and training centers.

  • Over 60 women in Wumulong earn income by making and selling Limi Yi costumes via e-commerce (average annual household income >30,000 CNY).

  • Indigo cultivation spans 2,500 acres, forming an integrated “plant-dye-sell” industry, with annual output exceeding 30 million CNY.

Li Dongmei’s efforts preserve the cultural identity of the Limi Yi, enhance anthropological and ethnological research, and contribute to cultural and economic revitalization.

V. Conclusion

As a provincial ICH inheritor, Li Dongmei (李冬妹) safeguards the “Black-Clothed Tribe” cultural heritage through her hands, revitalizing this ancient costume-making craft. Her dedication ensures that the Limi Yi traditional costumes survive, evolve, and continue to inspire future generations, embodying both heritage preservation and cultural responsibility.